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No, I would locate the problem and fix it and replace any wires that have degraded insulation. No need to replace good parts.

It sounds to me that bad things have happened inside the headlight bucket(s). Lots of wires stuffed in there.

The headlight ground wires can have worn off insulation and it won't cause a short.

Check the rubber hose on top of the fuel tank.

OK I am not following you exactly, but that does not matter, you need to do a visual inspection of the harness, just poking around with the ohm meter will just tell you what you already know, is that somewhere the hot wire is rubbing against the chassis.

It there an aluminum airlift bumper? Never heard of that.

Any wiring that is frayed or has crumbling insulation needs to be replaced. Erik's Surplus has everything you need.

The clicking is the self resetting circuit breaker inside the light switch keeping your truck from catching fire. You still have a dead short to ground somewhere in the headlight wiring. It could be the dimmer switch, it could be inside the buckets, who knows until you start looking for it.

I started a thread not long ago asking the same question. Somebody advised what the blown apart diode is for, it is not essential. If your voltmeter is dipping indicating glow current flowing, your box might still be alive. Tobash can you link the threads you mentioned, I cannot find them.

My guess is that Uncle refused delivery of more trucks due to the unresolved bellhousing cracking issue.

Oh I can explain that. For reasons only known to Stewart and Stevenson, hundreds and hundreds of trucks sat undelivered for years outside the Sealy plant. I would drive by there in awe back in the 90’s.

Yeah except all Milwaukee tools are made in Dongguan, China

Maybe there is mud or insect nest in your drain line. On starting, if you are not seeing the voltmeter dip during “wait to start” you have burned out glow plugs most likely. Check that your start box is not putting out continuous voltage to the glow plugs, they burn out after 10 seconds...

I had some that wouldn’t pull right out, was thinking they were swollen, in fact it was just deposits that I was able to remove by rotating the plug while pulling on it with a teensy vise grip.

The rod protruding from the booster, when at rest, should just barely touch the piston of the master cyl. If it pushes on it, brakes won’t release completely.

It was probably generating it’s little azz off when the rod let go. Other rod bearing will be pitiful as well. Be sure to plastigauge the crank before assuming it’s ok to use as is. I would fix what you got.

The information about the differentials, halfshafts etc has not been shared on SteelSoldiers yet.

MUTTs were designed in the late 1950s and the powertrain did not change. Growlers were designed 50 years later. Sure they used off the shelf components available currently but not rebuilt M151 parts.

Someone point out the M151 parts in the Growler pictures attached. Ain't none.

I don’t think the round stamped weapons tray fits the M1114, I think that is late A2 only. I have a M1114 bearing and the round stamped weapons tray does not match up to it.