Search results

What codes are you getting???

Yes they should be low ohms, if they test good there is no reason to mess with them.

To answer one of your questions, you want to try to pull them before using the extractor so you want to unscrew them first, as RWH and others said lots of penetrating oil and patience. Have your glow plugs tested bad?

The best reason for the quick connect, which do leak sometimes is to make it easier to change belts, only you do not need to disconnect the hose to change a serpentine belt which appears to be in production about the time they started installing the quick connects, would be handy for V belts...

I agree, there are many folks here with awesome talents.

Do the dash lights go out when you try to start it?, if you have something close in front of the truck turn on the head lights (if the batteries/battery connections are even good enough to burn the lights) , watch the reflected light and see if they go out when you try to start it. Are these...

I am curious where you are getting the core?

BTW you can also contaminate the geared hubs, diffs, transmission and transfer case with diesel from a bad fuel pump, diesel is not a very good lubricant, as I have found out first hand..... One reason I only run high end electric fuel pumps.

Once the transfer case is full of ATF it can travel through the vent system to the geared hubs, diffs, etc.

This is a prime example why everyone should change ALL the fluids and filters on any HMMWV they get from auction, of course now that you checked you know you have a problem and what to do about it before it becomes a BIG problem. By-passing the cooler is easy, slide under it with a flashlight...

I see they sold one listed as a 1986 with a 700K serial number, geez... Fact is whatever the SF-97 says is the final word, hopefully not being 25 years old will not be a big problem...

I just looked back at several M1097A1s that sold in Springtown, most did not list the actual serial number OR include a picture of the data plate, now that I sloppy/lazy work!! unless there is something more nefarious going on..... EDIT, it looks like they might pull the picture of the data...

4 speed or 3 speed?

I have not, I have however gutted and repaired several different potted modules in the past. I used Acetone, unfortunately it will also remove some of the component markings, electrolytic capacitors that have a plastic sleeve over them for one thing. Sometimes you can"read" the component as it...

I suspect he got it out of Springtown, it likely has a 5XX,XXX or 6XX,XXX serial number, body number means nothing in the context of titling it, the SF-97 will be the serial number/year that was listed in the sale. Dang I just realized my 1992 and 1993 trucks may actually have more value to some...

It is likely it will be a 2005, the only place I know of that had the original date or original serial number was on the data plate they removed when they re-built it

Sorry, the TPS is the throttle position sensor, it is basically a variable resistor on the side of the injection pump that tells the TCM (transmission control module) what position the accelerator pedal is in. As with all variable resistors it can develop bad spots (would be referred to as a...

I would re-visit the alignment of that switch, or possibly the TPS alignment, many transmissions unlock the converter with the gas pedal at "idle" EDIT, it could also be a bad TPS or poor TPS connections, this is where a good old analog meter will be helpful as if the TPS has a bad "spot" in it...

Before you wash the engine, did your truck have a fording valve? (high exhaust and intake) if so have you addressed the missing CDR valve?

The shunt is mounted to the side of the battery box, it is connected to the negative terminal on the "lower" battery If you have a 4 speed there will be a wire connected to the "center" connection between the lower and upper battery