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If you google the NSN number 5305014299149 or that number you listed you will see HPG and Kascar (real4wd) has those bolts. it also gives the dimensions of 7/16-20 X 9.75" but that is a rather odd bolt so it would be easier to order it from a HMMWV dealer than finding it at the local bolt shop...

You should have listed the exact model truck also so you can confirm the Use On Code (UOC) is valid for your application.

Here are the two pertinent documents, they are relatively easy to look up in the TMs you have been directed to before. IF the bolt you need does not have the actual dimensions listed you can google the NSN number then follow some of the hits and the dimensions will be listed. As has been...

I have never had that experience with Wally World, that is a shame, I actually have not had to exchange any batteries in the past 10 years or so, all of them have made it past the warranty period.

It uses the same TCM as the civy 4L80 so should not be too expensive, it should have a number on the TCM something like 24230461. There are 1000 TCMs for sale on Fleabay at this time listed under the example part number. The tuning might be a little different from TCM to TCM but there are tons...

I posted my want in the classified section with no results so I will try here. I need the insulator for the antenna port on the PRC47 radio with the 3/8" threaded antenna attachment point.

What size alternator do you have??? Here is the TM you need at this time but you need to know what alternator you have. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M998/TM%209-2320-280-24P-1%20HMMWV%20Parts%20vol%201.pdf

Those contactors fail all the time on 60A installations, pushing it to 100A would not be wise.

That was my point, not running the 100/200/300A charging current through the run relay/contactor. The instructions are very clear about abandoning the #568 wire and using the 5A for ign. sense in the 200A installation instructions. The 100A uses the same regulator and should be wired the same...

Here is how the 200A is wired, the 100A should be wired the same way, notice that 568 and 5A both go to the ign. sense terminal BUT you will notice the X on the 568 wire, that means it is not connected in this application. EDIT, what this chematic does not show is there should also be a heavy...

The relay that is burned up in your start box is easy enough to replace but of course you need to run the 100A output terminal directly to the batteries with a large enough wire to handle 100A

The ign. sense wire 568 and the old 60A charge wire 5A are both powered by the same relay, when converted to 100/200/400A alt. the wire 5A should go to ign. sense and the wire 568 should be taped off and abandoned. The reason the 5A is switched to ign. sense is because the wire 568 will not...

The reason the fan will not run is because the voltage going to the 60A alt (wire 5A) is controlled by the same relay the powers the fan and it is fried because the 100A alt has been charging the batteries through it.

The 60A alternators output went through a start box relay so there was no voltage on the output terminal unless the vehicle was in the run position. When it was converted to 100A there should have been a large wire run directly from the alternator output terminal to the batteries, the start box...

Re-seat all the connections after cleaning them with Deoxit and look for wear on the harness. It could also be a TCM issue not driving/reading the ESS correctly.

I agree with springer1981, it is extremely unlikely it is a reluctor ring issue, My best guess is also a wiring issue.

:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL: EVERYTHING is easier to do on a M151!! Yes it is entirely possible the valves have been removed, they are/were inline between the fuel tank steel lines and the steel lines going to the lift pump.

No they are not tripping as soon as they are turned on, it takes a while and must be on high beam, sorry if I flubbed that up. It is possible the breaker in his switch is just weak.

Since it is obviously a serious short (breaker tripping as soon as the lights are turned on) substituting the light switch would seem to be a logical step.

Welcome to the forum! The volt meter bouncing for a few minuets is called after glow, it is the EESS box pulsing the glow plugs on and off to keep them warm as the engine warms up a little and is perfectly normal, You have to put the meter on the neg of the rear battery and the positive of the...