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Leave it charged, you should purge some from all the tank drains on a regular basis to look for any signs of moisture… the fan will still turn just due to friction in the clutch/hub bearings. The test for if the fan clutch is disengaging properly is with the truck full of air, turn on the main...

Small terminal, large terminal? What terminals are you referring to? The large gauge bolted outputs on the alt are the only outputs. if you are referring to the two smaller terminals on the voltage regulator, those are the alternator control input(forward terminal) and the rear terminal is...

oh yea there is a restrictor there where the bypass line connects to the port on top of the trans heat exchanger. Even in place it has enough flow to keep the engine from warming until it gets load applied. At 65f in gear at slightly elevated idle(cold wx warmup procedure), my thermostat will...

Its a 2 plate thermostat. The upper port to the rad is closed when cold and the lower bypass port is open to recirc coolant back thru the engine(or thru the trans cooler on the A0). As the engine warms and the thermostat opens, the core shifts the 2 plates down, opening the passage to the rad...

Pretty sure you are Not the first person to get tripped up by all the disconnect switches:)

Ok that valve in the back looks like the remote control valve for the AOP. If that upper line runs to the hydraulic control then I would expect the lower line to be connected to park air somewhere back there. When park air is applied, no air will come out that upper port. The large port on...

Yes air operated pump…

The wet tank feeds: The pri and sec brake tanks, and the governor pressure sense. Via the protection valve Mullaney mentioned, it feeds cab suspension, ctis and fan control. The AOP gets its air from a 2way and a remote control valve off of the pri and sec tanks(disables AOP if park brake is...

The temp sensor and the over-temp switch are mounted in the thermostat housing. That is the best place to shoot with an IR. You should see a temp difference between that and the elbow/ upper rad pipe until you reach the thermostat opening point around 178F. Once the thermostat cracks and...

With all the bypass coolant going to the trans cooler instead of back into the engine, you basically don’t have a thermostat anyway until the trans becomes a heat source. They did away with the bypass on the A1/A1R so they warm up better/easier than an A0 does… Mmmm Exhaust Brake, Mmmm:)...

I think there are 2 lights, one is battery disconnect and the other is alt or charge failure?

The coolant loop is independent of the thermostat, so if the level is good, it should purge the heater loop as soon as RPM is increased. yea the A0 is cold blooded as they sent the bypass coolant down to the trans cooler instead of back thru the block like cat intended. You have to warm up all...

About any 2 terminal oil pressure switch will work, as they are normally closed. Since it provides a path to ground, a single terminal switch would also work you would just need to determine the proper wire of the 2 existing wires to connect to it…

Da Dam, I forgot all about you drawing this… you are right about errors in the mil drawing, sort of. You can see they were less than literal about where things were connected to make the drawing simpler. But basically it is the same ”signal” going to a particular place in the end, it is...

Do all the dash lights work when you do a lamp test? If the LBCD was detecting an alternator overload(it monitors the field circuit on the regulator to determine load) and disconnecting, it will light a dash light. The alt should be able to deal with a disconnect without locking out in...

Yo You don’t even have to pull the grill. Pull the heat control to get to the hot/heat position. Tip the cab and drain down a few gallons of coolant and disconnect the heater supply pipe off of the back side of the thermostat housing. See if you can blow some low pressure air thru that line...

Yes the switch down on the drivers side of the engine. The oil switch and the oil pressure sender that drives the gauge are 2 separate components. The switch is the smaller one toward the rear, the gauge sender is forward and larger…

No idiot light monitoring of the trans on the A0. I would suspect that your oil pressure switch is full of crap/corrosion and starting to short out… the neutral start contacts from the trans interact with that oil pressure light, start lockout and alt excite circuitry. if you remove the diode...

There is another remote disconnect sw over by the remote start switches in the passenger wheel well. The remote disconnects in cab and passenger wheelwell and the LBCD(new fangled polarity box) control those solenoids, but the LBCD only does it based on alternator load. there is a manual...

Put a valve in where the sample port is plugged and drain some off into a clean container. You can always add it back:)