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No, you don’t need any special tools for injector height/timing, just a vernier caliper with a depth probe like in this picture. In fact, you don’t need any special tools to do the whole process if you remove the intake plenum to expose the top of the cylinder head. Then a simple dial...

Yep, loud air venting when you jump H to B(supply) well thats your CTIS problem(one of them anyway). Isn’t it amazing what you can hear when the cat isn’t “Purring”:) The tires take a lot of air. When inflating on mine at low tire pressure it will drain a full wet tank down to 85 in 3...

The problem with measuring where shown is you are seeing heat from 2 different cylinders at that point. You want to measure up near the edge of a flange like in this pic, right alongside the cylinder port so you are only mostly seeing the heat from just that one cylinder... start with the...

Did you find a leak in CTIS? The park or trailer brake valve leak would not effect CTIS...

Does the primer bulb get firm when you pump it? If not, you are still inducing air someplace, the flapper bypass check is clogged/stuck open, or your pressure regulator has issues. Have you checked the primary fuel pressure? There is a T and a pipe plug on the forward side of the secondary...

Sounds like you have a leak. It does something and does not see the expected result(stable pressure during a pressure check, inflate or deflate after that commanded action). I suspect you have a big leak, which will become really obvious after you pressurize the system with the engine off...

The pressure switch provides a path to ground when the tank goes above 117 PSI, and removes that ground connection when the tank drops to 89 PSI. I think I would first make sure it is bad before I replaced it... 1. Do you hear any noise coming from under the passenger dash, click of solenoid...

Actually if you are converting to civillian/separate brake and turnsignals, you don’t really need a converter. 2 fairly minor changes in the panel, and you can use the blackout brake light wiring to drive separate brake light elements... K10 is the relay that shifts the dual function lights...

As mentioned, conditioner and some fresh fuel... the fuel in mine looked OK, but smelled weird(storage additive, biobor ect). Only ran it on that long enough to load it, and refilled with fresh diesel at first opportunity...

What NDT said, those power points are heavy gauge wire all the way back to alt and battery...

Yes it matters. One is the air sense line in from the wet tank. It actually connects to a T down beside the engine/trans on the line from wet tank to front red gladhand. That is how it measures the wet tank air pressure. The second line is an output from the governor. When the governor...

I think a fine mesh fence(screen) around and over the top would keep anything from getting on top. I think you would want this with fans on top or bottom anyway as small light debris that can clog airflow needs to be intercepted, especially if the fans are on the input side and block access to...

What year truck/what engine? Sounds like you have an A1/3126 engine? When you turn off the main switch, do you hear a click and woosh of air from under the passenger dash? If so that is your fan clutch solenoid operating. If you reach under the truck after you hear that woosh, the fan...

But if you actually want to lower transmission temperatures, you really need to bring those fans under a separate temp control monitoring trans fluid temp. As it is now, they are controlled by the same upper rad pipe 205F coolant switch that controls the engine fan clutch. I have always felt...

The only interconnect between the CTIS and the air brake system should be the air supply line off of the wet tank protection valve... it stopping when you unplugged the controller says it was something the controller was causing, but why?

Yep, read codes. Pay attention to the mode on indicator while reading the code memory locations, it being lit indicates a current active fault. The fact you can downshift manually is a good sign. This could be as simple as a Throttle Position Sensor(located on to- of the engine) out of cal or...

If remaking, pay attention to the UV resistance of whatever web you choose...

Oops, I should have said the fan solenoid is all the way to the RIGHT under the dash...

I would add that it is for wet cells. Unless your batts have caps to fill/check electrolyte, it is useless:)

what NDT said. Solenoid is on to apply air and freewheel fan. Temp switch removes power when it hits 205F. Solenoid de-energizes and vents fan side to engage fan. You should hear this venting from under the passenger dash every time you turn off the truck...