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You must have pressure in the tank to keep the cooling system working as it was desigend. Loss of pressure will raise the coolant temp and make the truck run hot, and even possibly overheat. A Bad coolant tank cap or one rated at more the 15 psi will do the same.

its been done...another reason for the occasional H1 wagon top available is it was removed due to rust and replaced. OP, I check with my source, he sold the brand new 4 door door hard top a few months back. post over on Humvee.net for H1 related stuff.

no offense taken....lol it's all good. But I think it would work for the OP as well. i have a customer slantback here that is heavily...and I mean heavily modified for all kinds of electronics gear...it's all running off of a Pulse tech unit I mounted in the right rear seat box. i will snap a...

I have installed them and put them to good use...they are cheap compared to other chicom junk for more money on the market. They are fully submersible, fused, and have both 12 and 24v feeds....what else do want? I will keep buying them and using them as long as they are available for this cheap.

Those half moon retainer plates plates should have sealant applied to them and anywhere in between them, also your would seal around the bolts. That stripping you added might be a problem, the turret tray sits only maybe a 1/4 in of the top of the roof when it bolted onto the turret bearing. If...

cutting up an H1 wagon is going to devalue the heck out of it, my suggestion is to find a 4 door hard top...good luck, or a soft top and add the 4 man hard top....I knew a guy in Georgia who had one. I recommend going over to humvee.net and asking there. You would be surprised how many folks...

Unless a large amount of rag top kits get dumped into the market from GL, expect the prices to increase as supply and demand increase. I had a cry baby last night who was offended by my quote on a slantback kit, a Kit I don't have mind you, just provided a realistic quote on what the market is...

the pulse tech unit as a kit comes with a solargizer, so when not running, it keeps the electrolytes happy in the battey. its not a charger though....be careful of these. I had a customer who had the full kit installed with the solar panel, it cooked and blew up one of the batteries. I found...

Upgrade to a 200amp generator and run the 14v tap to the rear battery, this will fix the imbalance. this is how it's done from the factory on new HMMWV's with TCM for the 4L80E trans. the TCM is 12 volts...

and I'm not sure you count as a Newb....you have a join date of 2009 and 290 posts....

This is the HMMWV forum, not the CUCV forum...CUCV's "have owned about 4" all seem to like to drift if alignment is off, and even when not...so to answer your question....having owned more different types of trucks then I can count, both military and Civ, I have ALWAYS gone to the tire for...

Yes, what are folks doing for this? Battery disconnect that it is on the 1078? So many new Mil trucks and all MHE have battery disconnects built in and are part of pre and post operating use.

yea, smoke pouring from the Generator is perfectly normal....carry on.

3 pages of posts for air pressure....LOL , really? Next someone going to ask what type of windex window cleaner they think is best for military glass.

The real question is...why? This ain't pimp my ride....LOL

Here is the key to BTM...so you dont snap a half shaft, do not slam on the brake once the slipping wheel is in the air and not making contact. The way you BTM is to literally have one foot on the brake pedal and the other on the fuel. the modulate back and forth....works freaking wonders off road.

It's printed on the tire...and in the -10

Yep....they do run hotter, and even hotter when the front supplemental Armor grill goes on. Just not enough air flow. you will notice even the up armored trucks have the standard grill installed these days.

All you need to do is splice a switch in between the hot lead on the start switch to a remote toggle of your choice and you don't need a keyed starter. You can put the switch anywhere, even make it keyed if you want.

your bouncing is due most likely to your comtrol box type perfoiming after glow on the glow plugs for approx 1-2mins after startup. And No....31.8 volts is to high. It should be @ 27.5-28.5, just enough to get it into the white tick mark in the green zone....you regulator/gen is toast.