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If timing were the issue, all the cylinders would suffer low compression. Often on old engines, the valve guides will get gunked up and the valves will suddenly not seat properly.

If you need assistance with logistics in Houston I can help.

I did a thread on fixing that, search "Hydraulic" in the FMTV forum.

Please Please scan a copy and upload the PDF, I need this as well.

Yes, that is the starter thermal switch that gave the Army fits very early in the FMTV life cycle. No promises, but that switch is as you say "likely inop". No promises, though. Next, if it were me, I would follow the "won't crank" troubleshooting tree in the TM.

Check to see if the thermal switch is bypassed on the starter, if not, bypass it. Connect two small white wires together that lead to a device on the starter not related to the solenoid. Disconnect battery before doing this. If that does not help, wiggle the relays in the Power Distribution...

The first gen is made of steel and has the unshippable huge one piece bows, and has silly "leaf spring" appearing supports that go between the bows. Second gen is all aluminum and breaks completely down.

If you obtain the second generation bow setup, the stringers that go from bow to bow are simple aluminum tube, which you could replace with longer? tube for your application.

I have ALWAYS had problems getting stuff hauled out of RRAD at a reasonable price. DLA has no problem paying $4/mile for hauling a HMMWV, so most all the trucks going there with stuff get a load out as well.

Picture please. Does the taper on the lug nut fit nearly through the lug hole?

If this truck is anything but a hobby vehicle I would suggest having a valve body on the shelf ready to install. One day the oil trick won't fix it.

Sweet, I just got one too and love it. I have an extra wheel/tire if you need it. They are kinda heavy at 10,000 lbs, I gave the 6.5 Chevy pickup a break and had mine hauled in.

It's called a combat rim because the tire can be shot full of holes but will not come off the bead, allowing the vehicle to continue to drive and fight.

It's a problem with the valve body. Once in a while mine gets confused like that as well. Add a good bit of Mystery oil into the air line feeding the 7155 and hope for the best. Reman valve bodies are available if that does not fix it.

Blown CV joint.

The mil sites need power with 100% reliability or soldiers die. In combat you can't drop power to a hospital or radio station because you need to add a quart of oil after a generator has run 30 days straight.

That engine has wet sleeves, meaning there are O-rings between the cylinder and block. The water can be coming from there as well.

In military applications, that switch typically switches (transfers) ALL the load from one generator to the other so maintenance can be performed on one generator. The switch on older generators transferred the load without regard to whether or not the generators were in synchronization...

The only reason I can think of that someone would put a gas sucking Chevrolet engine with spark plugs in a HMMWV is because nobody told them that you can buy a turbocharged GEP 6.5 from Southern Metals for peanuts and get all the horsepower a HMMWV will ever need or handle without snapping...

The frame rails on the deuce are not the same dimensions as any standard C Channel and neither is the winch mount. You could find a fabricator with a brake press to make the channels for you. Or do what I do, fold down the engine side panels and sit on those when servicing the engine.