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Thanks for you info, Just jacked up each tire and checked bearings like I would check a trailers wheel hub bearing and they were perfect not even a hint of play. Also pulled the plug on each front hub and the magnet looked good on each and the gear oil was still pretty clear. I did drain and...
I’m curious on real world power. I’m running a 2003 M1078A1. I had caterpillar change the engine ECU to 330 HP. Converted into a RV with high speed gears and 28,000 lbs and getting 6.5mpg. Just finished a 3,500 mile road trip on windy mountain roads and honestly not totally impressed with the...
So I’ll explain why I’m asking. I just finished up a 3,500 mile road trip with my 2003 M1078A1 ex-Air Force truck with 13,500 miles on it. 10,000 miles I’ve driven over the last 8 years. I’ve converted it into an expedition vehicle and she weighs 28,000lbs fully loaded with full tanks. My wife...
Correct, so that's why Steve's method would take into account for spider gears/bearings and the hub bearing wear. Setting it to the factory settings would only take in account the hub bearings not the spider gears/bearings.
There has to be a different result. New gears with precise new parts vs old gears and parts with wear and break in. If it doesn’t matter then if everything is currently running good and no issues at all, why would anyone bother even though they say it should be done annually, unless there is...
I know I'm waking up an old post and I"m hoping someone has figured this out.
I just read this entire Forum and I'm still not certain which method of setting the gear lash is better.
Also no one ever mentioned how to precisely measure the lash using Steve's method??????? Which I would agree that...
I built this which allowed me to change the transmission by my self. In the TM it shows how to make a lifting bracket that bolts to the transmission and is a perfect balance point for a single point lift. Using a small chain hoist I lifted it just enough to take the weight off then after...
New one is installed and working.
pulled the old one apart and it appears that I could have just unscrewed the set screw then unscrewed the plastic cap continue taking it all apart cleaned it really well tightened everything up on reassembly add a little RTV then screw the cap back on. So in...
Well....picked up the new switch from napa this morning, removed the old switch and guess what? The thread on is 1/4 NPT not 1/8 NPT so I'll be making an adapter bushing to save me from a 30 mile round trip back to town.
Thanks for the heads up before I start diving into that project!!! I’m surprised I have seen more of this subject here in steel soldiers. Or maybe it’s like listening to my wife I just ignored it! 😂
I’ve been keeping it unplugged until I need to air down or up and recently installed a switch to do this. And honestly only needed to do that maybe four different times in the last 3,500 miles. So I’m leaning more to my earlier theory and may just try to implement the earlier suggestion and put...
I definitely have not did all of that PM work sounds expensive and extremely extensive for annual PMs. I thought the rear axle had wet bearings. I have to give all that a thought. And in the meantime I’ll do the sniff test.
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