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to repair coming out of 5th on decel, there are several factors. i will list them in order of most likely, worn relief on front of mainshaft, worn internal splines on 4/5 syncro hub, badly worn support bearing where mainshaft is in the rear of the input shaft. if all these issues were addressed...

syncros have nothing to do with staying in gear, only with engaging properly. in this trans there are several methods of keeping it in gear, depending on which gear you are refering to. 1st and rev rely solely on the ball and spring detent in the top cover and the fork to keep the gear in...

2nd, 3rd, and 5th are kept in gear by small indented (machined) areas on the hub (2 & 3) and on the shaft in the case of 5th. the detents in the cover only hold the fork in the correct position. by 'new' i assume you mean new to that truck?? i.e. used and unknown?? next we need to know if it...

i would like to know what kind of gaskets you used, and how they were installed. the old style gaskets had to be coated in certain areas with permatex or they would leak, i have never seen the mil say how to coat them. the civ engines were done this way. all things considered, new style gaskets...

normal?? only in the sense that they all do it. certainly not right, and i doubt a retorque will do anything at all. the issue is the very old technology head gaskets. when replaced and done correctly, with the new gaskets, you will just be amazed at how dry it stays. tom

as many will recall, i have been using 40wt in trans and transfer for many years. easier shifting, better milage. the rears are hypoid, so require a different oil.

it looks like no one really knows how the air pack works.......... with the air piston frozen, you will still have brakes, just no boost. the only possibility here would be a frozen line between the primary mc and the air pack, or a frozen hyd piston in the air pack. in any event, it would now...

when i did mine, i used just that brass valve. it was not that much, around $50 i think. also moved filler of second tank (in place of spare) so it was in the front like the original tank. i have a source of those valves if needed. tom

absolutely no reason to replace the disk if it is the propper thickness. just clean it in some degreaser and it will be as good as new.

or ebay. ps i have 100w h4 bulbs now = BRIGHT

all well and good, but the newer more accurate and more sensitive gauges use a dc to dc amp to drive the meter, puttng no load on the coupling. with these it is just a matter of hooking them up to 12 vdc, checking the current draw and calculating a 12 volt drop accross a resistor for 24 volt use.

well good luck, i'm sure it will help a lot. i would do it in an altogeather different way, but that is just me. i would use a flycutter in a milling machine to remove the crimps that hold the covers on and take the joints apart and start from scratch cleaning and reassymbling them. i have one...

well, that is the point! there has to be something wrong, not over full or thin. those two just won't do it, even togeather. (even 7 qts is well below the top shaft.)

for what it is worth, too light weight oil will not leak, if there are no problems. i use 30 wt motor oil and on one test transmission i over filled by 2 qts (total of 7 qts) no leads at 62 mph for hours.

mike is right, leave nothing to chance. there are only a few things that can cause oil to get out the front. bolts, gaskets (2), worn bearing retainer, wrong front bearing. when all these are correct, propper oil level or even over full will not leak. tom

????? the shifter fork for the transfer case has ball and spring detents. only the lever is adjustable, not the position of the fork. could be a broken spring, most likely need new transfer.

well, i suspect there are 2 part numbers for that tool. 1 for the older engines that only went to, 130 ft lbs? and a newer stronger one for the 158 ft lbs. mine did not seem to mind at all, with no flexing. tom

why not just buy the correct mil surplus tool?? i think i paid $20 for mine, i bet you have more in that. tom

don't tap it, hit it with a heavy large hammer as hard as you can. you have to shock the 4 tapered keys out. and be sure to re torque it properly. 140 ft lb i think...........

the A3 also has different ratio axles to make up for no overdrive..............