Search results

Thought I remembered that truck.

While you wait on winter to pass where ever you live I would start lubricating the whole truck, but especially the cables it takes time for the lubricant to soak all the way in and it is not that hard to do. Also the pump not turning will probably need to be diagnosed with the motor running and...

I am not certain but I know that it works. Me and my stepfather both use them on our trucks and it takes the harshness out even when not inflated to take extra weight. I recommend them to anyone who has a truck.

Wrecker just use a tow bar and the drive shaft. I have heard guys tell me this before and I say it might can be done rear to rear but the front has things in the way. Also this would be a useless hookup unless the stuck truck was dead.

Okay I had just noticed that most jib booms drooped like that and was wondering.

Zebedee I was wondering and Ron might know as well why the droop angle on the jib?

Howdy and you are looking for a Marine Corps 5 ton with a ISO bed they are 20' with drop sides

So how big of a porch do I need to park a 1008? Thinking like 16' I can have some overhang and still be legal. Any ideas on how to make the rear bumper/ramps? I am thinking to make a fold up section about 3' that after loading can be folded down for bumper use.

Nope they are M939A2P1's. I believe that people are just making typos. I have seen literally thousands of 939s and never an A3.

So Jake are you going hydraulic? And where did you find the information sheet? Would love to see a 939 series bolster truck.

Used the Victor Reinz JV128 3187 not for anything other than looks. And no goop I have used the perma-tex and it just cooks and turns loose.

Sorry Ron that's not true here. The front won't work without the bed installed

The front a rear winches are direct drive not hydraulic and requires different pto's. It has one that operates the front independently from the rest of the systems.

Yeah bud give me a call

Hey Jake you do know that these winches can be reconfigured to move the input to any of the four corners that you may need it on.

The stand alone system would have made sense and would only required a tank like they used on the other trucks. So I guess they just weren't thinking.

Ran good for about a hour while I connected the tow bar and drove home

Ended up putting a thick almost like asbestos gasket back in and left extra around the outside will trim it down to about 1/8th around the outside. But on the bright side I now have everything you need to cut gaskets.

Just so anyone else that comes looking the nut piece is called a thimble and the piece in the wire rope is called a plug and both can be purchased from Esmet and are recommended to be replaced whenever they are undone and it is cheap insurance for a good termination on your new line. Esmet also...

I would just run it as is for a while and see if it does it again. It is a pain to remove the valve and head, if it happens again remove the line coming from the top of the unloader valve to see if that helps if not a 1/2" wrench will take off the bolts on the unloader valve and you can check it...