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Me, too. The hole to hole variance is too subtle to be easily identified by my eyes. I have a truck where the factory (!) used something like an angle grinder to set alignment marks in the floats and tanks. All the best, 2Pbfeet

It would have been pretty straightforward to test the balance with a second bearing support for the engine side. I don't see any balance drill holes in the fan assembly, which argues to me that there wasn't a factory process, but doesn't say anything to me about potential imbalance. The wiring...

That's great. I would just check that the missing screws aren't behind or under the fuel tank. It would not be pleasant if a loose screw wore a hole in the tank. (That tip is courtesy of @Guyfang, who put the fear of that into me.) With only two screws in, I would double check that the...

And the prize for attention to detail goes to... Wow! Nice job. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Well, with three, you have lots of room to compare and contrast. Sounds like a fun project. (y)(y) I think starting with the pop test on the injectors is a great place to start. After truly imbalanced crank/piston/rods, I think imbalanced injection is the one most likely to add excessive...

I have chased NVM on more than an few items, and speaking as a non-professional, it always feels to me like a swamp. Folks who make zillions of something can put it into a computer model and simulate it or test it and find the combination of tweaks and absorbers to make a difference. For the...

I agree. In the third photo above from @Scoobyshep there is a wire that appears to have burn damage in several places, though of course, it could be a stain from something else. That might be a circuit to start the search at. All the best, 2PbFeet

+1 on heat. It is your friend here, but a gear puller is probably the tool that you want. Did you get the pump timed to the engine already? It really helps reinstallation. Here's a video of a similar Stanadyne removal from a JD engine; PM if you need a rebuilder. I know a good one in SC. All...

True. There is always sending the coastal radiators out for anodizing. Having maintained equipment at a beach, I don't think radiator corrosion is a huge issue. Yes salt water gets to aluminum, but not quickly, and a little protection goes a long way. E.g. blocking direct wind from the ocean...

Thanks for sharing! Gotta love zip tying a spare fuse to the same fuel line the fuse holder is zip tied to. I do like the idiot light for power at the fuel pump. All the best, 2Pbfeet

@Light in the Dark thanks for stepping up on this one! +1 on a drop in. For me, plastic screw on filler neck funnels work well enough for adding coolant. I would rather not have new opening in the top to reduce the potential for leaks into the enclosure. I don't see much value in changing...

If it gets right down to it, Keyser makes custom racing radiators, many of them in a 16" double pass, but not a drop in as their standard is 2.375" thick. Custom quote form here; https://fast-d7f5.kxcdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/RadiatorForm2024.pdf All the best, 2Pbfeet

Noted thank you! The machine is in really good shape for its age. Ignoring the faded control panel and slightly weathered paint, it looks as good as my late-model units. I'm not sure why the rings are stuck, but the engine shows all signs of being healthy. Oil pressure is 60 psi cold/50 psi...

Good luck with Milton. Stay safe out there. One does need to let it crank long enough for the oil pressure to stabilize; it is part of the safety system. My bet is you didn't hold the switch quite long enough, All the best, 2Pbfeet

Bung vents? https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bung-vents/ There are also smaller versions that do bidirectional venting, but not all of those have flash back screens or mechanisms. All the best, 2Pbfeet

I haven't bought those plugs in a long time, but I remember how pricey they were, and the crimper was an investment. Stay safe! Good luck with Milton. Storm surge is not something to have a discussion with. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Roger that. Also used on almost all aircraft these days after the 1996 TWA-800 crash. As I wrote above, I just hadn't ever seen or heard of it used to shutdown engines before. And if NASA uses it, it must be good. Right? Tang anyone? All the best, 2Pbfeet

I agree with you on the derate; I have had other engines that weren't tuned and didn't derate until over 10,000', which I think had to do with the ability of those engines to ignite well in lean atmospheric conditions at sea level. I tend to be on the trust, but verify page... Renewable diesel...

Thanks! I'd never heard of it being used before. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Do you know that for your Lister DN2M engine specifically? There should be a data plate on the enclosure. The data plates that I have seen for other DN2Ms were not yet in derate at 4,000' and 95F, and only to 4.3kW at 8,000'@95F. So, a guesstimate derate would be closer to 4.7kW. (6% @ 6,000'...