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I ran those numbers this morning, after the unit sat outside overnight, in the rain, with the covers off of both the control box and heater top (fuel control area). My dumb fault. I wasn't expecting good results, but wanted to run the heater to dry it out before I moved it inside anyway. Here...

Absolutely. Free for you bud. Cost anybody else a 12 of Corona's and 3 limes.

I don't think you will find anybody to supply you that answer. A lot of people buy trucks and then part them out for profit, even running vehicles. I don't think they are going to just hand over their profit margin figures in doing so. Also, it is different each time for them. People don't...

...and a pic of the carbon encrusted fuel tube which I believe was the issue:

....and, we have IGNITION! Thanks to all that input here. I did not really want to become an expert on these, but it is what it is, there is not a piece I have not went through at this point. I disassembled the burner, and found the tip to be clogged with chunks of carbon. Cleaned them all...

Good morning from MI:

Flame switch tested good, and its adjustment seems good. I have fuel pressure into the regulator block, and fuel appeared when I loosen the copper tube on the outlet side of the regulator block when the solenoid is clicking. It is all there and working, I think it is just not enough fuel flow...

:cookoo:

You have like 17 batteries on your truck. I think you are trying to apply for hybrid so you can drive in the HOV lane.

Drilled holes should be round, not square, so I think you are good! rofl My in-laws are in prison.

Sorry to thread-jack, but tell me a little more about this? I notice when I am at a standstill, and even in neutral I think, and I push my transfer case push-button in, my truck will clunk forward an ever small amount. Very repeatable, almost same as you describe, and my T case shifts...

No, but why don't you tell us all about all the switches that your truck has.

If you drive that truck to work, you'll miss that attendance bonus, because it won't start. [thumbzup] The general consensus is, asking us questions about it doesn't change their age. They are shot by any measure. Charging probably won't help much, if at all. At this point, they are what...

Sweet-chuck. We'll be waiting for load test results. No picking up in-laws allowed! I was going to pick up WildChild467 by the hole in his underwear, but I didn't need a garter belt looking BVD elastic band wound up in my new 24V crane winch.

Thanks. 10-4 on the blower running at a reduced rate, and also the purge run after flame is out. Both of those are working correctly, and yesterday I adjusted the flame switch to insure it, prior to testing (1/2 turn CW after click when cold). So is the error a mistake in just the TM, or...

If you're out, the raising party does not have to show. :smile:

Thanks everybody for sticking with me. Not that it matters, but I don't think "Hi" is locked out during a start. The fuel solenoid clicks twice as fast on Hi as it does "Lo", even during a start attempt. I am keying into this because maybe it is an indicator that something else is still...

After all that, the only "spare" items I run in my truck is a can of ether and a few zip ties. Only thing that has even remotely acted suspicious in the 1 year and 4000 miles so far is the fuel shut off solenoid, and the zip ties can hold that in the run position. You guys had some good ideas...

I pulled the glow plug. It looks like new. I need to confirm it works, but it ohmed out ok. The wick looks new, but was bone dry. I'm going to pour some fuel down the glow plug hole as a prime to saturate the wick, and try it again. 5F outside right now, let's see what happens... I have...

So I have new updates. The heater will not light off, and I have fuel flowing out of the regulator block, but it is not flowing out of the exhaust, even after several attempts of 2 minute start attempts each. I need to pull the copper injection tube and the glow plug assembly. So after...