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Yeah except all Milwaukee tools are made in Dongguan, China

Maybe there is mud or insect nest in your drain line. On starting, if you are not seeing the voltmeter dip during “wait to start” you have burned out glow plugs most likely. Check that your start box is not putting out continuous voltage to the glow plugs, they burn out after 10 seconds...

I had some that wouldn’t pull right out, was thinking they were swollen, in fact it was just deposits that I was able to remove by rotating the plug while pulling on it with a teensy vise grip.

The rod protruding from the booster, when at rest, should just barely touch the piston of the master cyl. If it pushes on it, brakes won’t release completely.

It was probably generating it’s little azz off when the rod let go. Other rod bearing will be pitiful as well. Be sure to plastigauge the crank before assuming it’s ok to use as is. I would fix what you got.

The information about the differentials, halfshafts etc has not been shared on SteelSoldiers yet.

MUTTs were designed in the late 1950s and the powertrain did not change. Growlers were designed 50 years later. Sure they used off the shelf components available currently but not rebuilt M151 parts.

Someone point out the M151 parts in the Growler pictures attached. Ain't none.

I don’t think the round stamped weapons tray fits the M1114, I think that is late A2 only. I have a M1114 bearing and the round stamped weapons tray does not match up to it.

I might add that that TM is super confusing as organized. I printed the turret applicable pages and rearranged the pages such that all the same UOCs were grouped together. Then it made more sense. You then have to pick a path to go down, as the turret components don’t necessarily interchange...

Start with TM9-2320-387-24P. It’s by no means comprehensive of the myriad of configurations fielded.

Heat it up with Victor wrench. Never fails to convince stubborn threads.

Hawkers are great but 13 years sitting dead will likely have killed one.

I have looked everywhere and I cannot find the drawings. No big deal though, the wood blocks are 2x4 true dimension white oak blocks that are the same length as the 299 feet. You will see that the 299 hangs over the sponson, these blocks accommodate that. The mount should allow about an inch...

Your problem is new loads of crap being pumped out of the tank and holding the needle valve open. Put a filter before and after the fuel pump. Carry spares. When the truck won’t go 60 mph anymore it’s time to replace filters.

let me know if you need the signal corps drawings of the wood mounting blocks and location on the sponson.

Need you to triple check the connection of the wires to the ignition switch.

What happens at this point if you move switch to start?

Your trailer does not appear in any of the usual military equipment reference manuals.

That is metric.