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Before tearing into K8 (it rarely goes bad) I'd suggest measuring the AC voltages going into K8 as detailed in the thread I suggested. Very likely you'll find one or more of them way to high causing K8 to trip the overload. This post.. (updated below for your trip point) I'd suggest doing the...

Check out this thread. Lots of good info on things to test to track down the cause of a false overload. False Overload Issues

You can also replace K2 with a standard 24 volt starter relay. Something like this. You may need to change the wire lugs to fit the t

Have you tested the Exciter Stator resistance to be sure it's good? TM says it should be about 12 ohms. Have you measured the DC voltage going to the Exciter Stator while the genset is flashing the gen head to verify the DCS is sending the flashing voltage? If you do see a flashing voltage to...

Have you performed the troubleshooting steps in the -24 TM for that fault? Results?

There is no need to externally "flash" the gen head. THE DCS takes care of doing that automatically. Excerpt from the -10 operators manual... Field circuit in lower left below

Housing and pins one end Molex Housing P/N 3092042 DigiKey Housing Molex pins P/N 2092103 DigiKey Male Pins Housing and Pins other end Molex Housing P/N 3091042 DigiKey Molex Housing Molex Pins P/N 2091104 DigiKey Molex Pins Pins can be soldered onto the ends of your wires and snapped...

The connection between the A9 and the float switch is done with a 4 pin Molex connector. To do the mod without cutting any wire could be done by building a little adapter like with a male and female Molex connector to tap into the FL2 circuit. Something like this...

I'd suggest connecting your toggle switch across the FL2 float switch and not do it by providing power directly to the Aux Pump. Providing power directly to the pump will backfeed into the A9 possibly damaging it. Wiring to the FL2 circuit would require removing the end panel covering the fuel...

Bolt Specs

Test "h" is verifying the generator is generating the correct flashing voltage. Also getting a reading between 4 and 12 volts indicates continuity to the static exciter. If there was a wiring issue or the static exciter was bad the voltage measured would likely be closer to 24 volts. Test "j"...

From the pics posted below it appears to be a Libby. Green paint and Libby showing between the wires.

Check out this thread. Lots of good info on things to test to track down the cause of a false overload. False Overload Issues

I did put a gauge on one of my 831's. As I recall when initially started it was about 125 PSI. And is warmed up it dropped to about 80-90 PSI.

Yes same resistors used in 802s and 803s

I've searched and didn't find that resistor as well and a direct substitute that was previously available. An option would be to use a RE70G7R50C02 chassis mount resistor.

I've searched and didn't find that resistor as well and a direct substitute that was previously available. An option would be to use a RE70G7R50C02 chassis mount resistor.

Since you have the same voltages across R12 and R13 I'd suspect one of those burden resistors failed and is open circuit.

Correct. If the AC voltages to the K8 terminal pairs is less than 5.6 volts AC and you get an overload fault then I'd say K8 is bad. Since you are seeing voltage in excess of that then the issue is with the switch contacts, wiring or R12 or R13. Yes, you would normally see the same AC voltage...

There are usually a pair of laminated schematic pages in that storage pocket. The same schematic info is in the back of the TM mentioned in the post above.