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Step H - 7.2 V This verifies the Flashing Function is happening and you've got continuity to the static exciter and that it's working properly. Step J - 89.7 V This verifies the Quad Winding in the stator is good and providing the correct AC voltage to power the AC Voltage Regulator Step L -...

It could also be the Fault Monitor itself. They do go bad. Ditto on the A9 Float module. They go bad too. I'm working on something to replace the A9 Module, Float Switch assembly and Fuel Level sender. It's not ready to be sold yet. I need to do some tweeks to it and do some more testing.

The lower float on that assembly is for detecting a No Fuel situation. If the tank gets really low it trips the Low Fuel fault shutting the engine down. The upper float is for the Aux Fuel pump automatic operation. If you totally disconnect that assembly you will loose the ability of the...

Fuel tank switch? Which switch are you referring to?

As Light in the Dark indicated, download the Technical Manuals (TMs) from the forums TM section. Specifically, you need to perform the AC Voltage Regulator tests called out in the TM ending in -24. Post up the results of each test step and then we can guide you toward finding the cause. Be...

Here's a schematic I created a few years back of the factory VR Diodes D1 - D9 have dummy PN's by them. Component Ref Des may not match the factory VR. ** No guarantees this schematic is 100% correct. **

The Technical Manuals for the 804A are available for downloading from here---> 804A TMs Sounds like the VR or some other part of the VR syatem may have died. Do the AC VR tests called out in the -24 TM and post up the results of your measurements of each test step. The 804s used two different AC...

This may help. From the -10 TM

T- Good to hear you finally got it running! If the 3A fuse keeps blowing it usually indicates the VR has failed. Before jumping to that conclusion do the following. 1) Remove the 3A fuse 2) Disconnect wire 104C from terminal 6 of AC voltage regulator Set multimeter to DC volts and connect...

I searched and could not find an exact replacement. 305 is an oddball value. Since those resistors are the burden resistors for the CT's I suspect you could use a 300 ohm 3 W resistor. 300 instead of 305 would only change the circuit by about 1.5%. 300 ohm resistors are plentiful.

With the set running and the batteries are charged the battery/alternator voltage ought to be about 28.2 volts. With the set running is the charge meter in the RED or GREEN and about what charge or discharge amps is it reading? Remove FU1 and see if the battery charge meter reads the same as in...

The batteries going dead AND the alternator not charging may indicate failed diode(s) in the alternator. Have you tried adjusting the AC output voltage with the front panel adjuster? Does the output voltage change at all? When the set is running what AC voltage do you get at the outlet and...

I had to do the same fix to a DCS a couple of years ago. The window was horribly discolored and bubbled making viewing of the screen quite difficult. Now it's crystal clear.

Correct. The issue is if someone re-wires the gen head leads on a 1050 and up from 208 3 PH to 120/240 Single Phase it may need some mods to also keep the DCS happy.

Might have to fool the DCS by connecting its AC sense lines the right way to keep the stock DCS happy and the VR working correctly.

The VR is part of the DCS and not a separate item in the generator.

1N5406 600 volt 3 amp

Also the second attachment in the following link may be of some help. Annotated DC schematic

Here ---> MEP-803A TMs From the TM Section of this forum

Have you downloaded the -24 TM and checked the schematics. All the wiring info is there from S1 to the Fuel Pump.