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You could certainly try it. If needed, I have a test setup that can test them per the TM. If it fails I can troubleshoot and most likely repair it. Just finished up troubleshooting and repairing 7 of them last week. Failures I encountered were bad Q3 transistors, some bad Q1 and Q2...

Typically, the failure of the arm not lifting off the magnet is due to the magnet strength being set to high. Yes, it's adjustable. To adjust for less strength loosen the nut securing the magnet to the bracket. Screw the magnet inside the circular collar a bit deeper into the collar...

As Guy said no. The OP usually shots up to about 125 PSI quickly after starting. Way more than the 15 PSI LOP cutoff.

Shutdown comes from the A2 Fault Monitor. When a fault is reported to it A2 turns the K12 FAULT relay on. K12 is the leftmost relay behind the gauge panel. When tripped K12 will have an LED on it in. When that happens K12 removes power from the Governor Controller module causing the engine...

The OP switch's fail fairly often in the 831's. Hopefully you actually do have oil pressure! You can disconnect one of the wires to the switch to prevent it from reporting/falsely reporting that fault. ** If there is a real OP issue it won't shut down!

Everything you describe sounds normal. Normally when you first start the generator the gauge will go a bit up into the green indicating the alternator is topping off the batteries after starting. It usually goes back to virtually zero when running after that. 28+ volts from the alternator...

I had two seized pumps on an 802. Both stuck in compressed and wouldn't rotate. Took the tops off both and took out the loose parts. Soaked it in Carb Cleaner for a few days. Then used as BRASS drift and a small hammer to drive the plunder back down to the non compressed position. Soaked some...

This. You want to verify you can press here and compress the spring and it springs back when you let off pressure. It's a strong spring. Looking at other pics on the web of the IP yours looks like it might be stuck in the compressed position.

That explains why it was stuck! Obviously, someone removed the pump trying to fix an issue and caused another one. While you had the pump out did you verify you could compress the plunger on the pump to verify it wasn't stuck? The pumps in 802's and 803's will get gummed up and stick compressed...

To see how it fits together you need to look at the engine specific TM 9-2815-257-24P The black arm is bolted to "P/O 23". P/O 23 is attached to the end of the shaft of 23. The top of 23 has a "U" shaped cup in the top if it. The metering pumps fuel control pin sits on the "U". As 23 swings...

Thx for the reply and video. So there appears to be two issues. 1) I suspect the magnet strength is set too high not allowing the actuator to lift off the magnet. Low starting battery voltage could cause this too. 2) Most importantly and why it's not starting is the black arm (throttle) that...

I've tried to recondition two Concode batteries. At first, they seemed to recover but both quickly died. I replaced them with pairs of new 12 V AGM's in both sets. They work great. I don't see anything wrong in the pictures posted. Minor issue is someone removed the locking factory safety...

The relay for that is located on the board just under the top cover of the Inverter. The one circled in red. The whacky Governor Control is due to either the Governor Controller being out of adjustment or more likely the Governor Controller is failing. The adjustment procedure is in the -13&P TM

You could. Just don't forget to remove it should it ever be switched back to 120/240.

OK.... Could be 1 of the inverters has an issue. I'd suggest setting it to 120/240. The apply a 1,500 watt load from L0 to L1 and see if the inverter half can support the load. Disconnect that load and reconnect it from L0 to L2 and again see if the inverter half can support the load.

What mode is the inverter set to? 120 or 120/240? If 120/240 is your load balanced? L0 to L1 and L0 to L2? Is it a 240 volt load (L1 to L2) or two 120 volt loads L0 to L1 and L0 to L2)? In 120/240 mode if either load is greater than 1,500 watts the Overload will occur. Remember, the...

I use the BD681G components when I repair them. ---> DigiKey BD681G

4" here and winding down. Had to hang the plow on the truck and clear the driveway and parking area.

I cut the package open and slipped the nut and bolt in a small Zip Loc bag. Will drop it off at the post office Monday.

Nice to meet you too. If you like I can put that nut and bolt in your package with the replacement GC.