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If you looking at a High Frequency inverter then it's way less likely to be able to start it. HF inverters can only put out their surge capacity for a very brief time before tripping. On the other hand Low Frequency inverters are much more suited for starting motor loads. They can put out...

I'd just chop those ferules off and extend the wires as needed with suitable wire and some crimp butt connectors. For mounting the contactor I suggest doing this. Re-use the "L" bracket that was used under the inverter and do this. Just need to drill 1 hole to mount the contactor to it.

A great tool for finding electronic parts is Octopart.com Just put in the part number and it will display what distributors carry the part, how many they have in stock and pricing.

Newark has 4 of the 08490

As you know LED's require little voltage to light up. A flicker tester could be made by adding a current limiting resistor to an LED. Then add two wires to it to use as probes. If it's then attached across two points in a circuit and there is momentary voltage drop the LED will blink...

Do you have any LED's and resistors laying around? I have an idea on how to make a tester to track down the problem. :cool: If you don't I can make one and mail it to you.

Instead of messing with messing with MT4 I'd suggest installing a jumper wire between the two top terminals of MT4. Be sure to disconnect the batteries first. The jumper will bypass MT4. See if the flickering stops. If it doesn't then it's not MT4.

MT4 is behind the gauge panel in the front right corner.

Before your post I tore the roof off my 802 to check if 7 to 8 was closed in 120/240. It is... Time to put my roof back on now that the mystery is solved.

Since you can see the contacts set the switch so 8 is "closed" and then look into cavity by 7 and see if it appears "closed". If so I'd then check continuity from 7 to 8. If no continuity, then I'd run a point file or something between the contacts and then recheck continuity.

Here are some pictures of the innards of some of the many layers of S8. Pictures sent to me by someone who tore one apart. And yes they can fail...

I suspect you may be checking the wrong terminals on S8. For checking for continuity between 7 & 8 you need to probe these spots.

The red marks in your diagram should have continuity with S8 in position 3. Might some of the jumpers be missing from S8?

With S8 set to 120/240 B1 is floating and not connected to any windings. L2 is not used in 120/240. Only A1 & C1 are connected to the windings and of course L0.

I was also thinking it may be a wiring issue or switch issue somewhere between TB3 and K1 when suggesting to check the resistances.

Also check the resistance between A1, B1, C1 on the contactor and ground. All permutations.

You should also verify that there is no connection between each of the windings.

Be sure to check the wiring on S8.

I highly recommend NOT starting the set again until you find what is causing a huge load. You can quickly burn up the windings in the generator stator rendering it useless. Here is one that burned up about 2 months ago that exhibited the same bogging.

The genius 1s should be fine to keep the batteries topped off between uses.