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I'm kinda sure you are not supposed to mount a tube type tire (which is the 9.00-16) on a tubeless rim and just inflate it like any other.

Try to find a 63B light wheeled mechanic near you. A typical ASE mechanic will have no clue. The glow plug system HAS to work, when it does the engine will crank up immediately. I don't think your issue will be simple to solve via this website, I could be wrong.

If you're not getting a solid long glow with the accompanying long voltmeter dips, none of your start problems should come as a surprise.

Speedi-sleeve.

The T-138 transfer case cannot be split open for repair while mounted in the truck. It is VERY heavy so use a strong transmission jack so you do not have an accident. I would make 100% sure the shift linkage is moving the shift rod to the detent positions before I pulled that monster. Oh and...

Welcome, see page 16 and post 174 of this thread to help with ohming out the harness and solenoids: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152882-Working-on-the-M1078-LMTV/page16

Try this method. Turn on your aftermarket lights. Put one probe of your voltmeter on the 24 volt positive battery terminal. Place the other probe on the positive battery terminal of the other battery. Should read 12 volts, if not, the battery interconnect cable is faulty. Next, while...

All of them. Negative cable to shunt, shunt to ground, battery interconnection, positive to starter.

Try turning on your aftermarket lights and then measure the voltage at the starter connection. If it's now zero, you have a battery cable ring terminal connection that is internally corroded between the terminal and the copper cable and not allowing big power through. It's a bit of a goose...

Next time coming out of the pit get on the throttle 100% at the highest gear you can and see what happens. Should be at max HP at that point. I don't need to tell you that the cause of this knock will soon make itself known if you keep driving the truck.

Now I am thinking the knock is related to the effort the engine is putting out. I have a boost gauge on mine and little if any boost is developed until gears 13-16. Sounds like you have an engine rod? knock whenever the 400 is putting out 200+ horses. Drive the truck up a very steep hill...

Here is my bone stock tired ex-AT&T 3500 turbo 6.5 4x4 with 4L80E at 22,000 GCWR. Roars up steep hills at 65 mph, flats at 70+. Power and fuel economy of this engine is beyond what I ever imagined.

I have a 915 and 916 with the 7155 but neither has this issue. Maybe I can help with narrowing down which component. So you can be in 13th at say 30 mph, go from float to full throttle, no noise. Shift to 14th, say 35 mph, full throttle, "knock-knock-knock", release throttle, no noise? Is it...

Oh yes, that is an interesting combination of parts there. You are supposed to have left and right split bumpers, winch to bumper brackets 2 ea, the upper winch spacer bracket should be a sheet metal part, the clutch lever is home made, lifting shackle pins are wrong, and you are missing the...

It should fit snug with minimal pulling or stretching. A 50 year old NOS top may have shrunk. If it's a new repro, send it back.

RWH will shoot me but yes it can be done, I put the viscous clutch on mine a very long time ago because I hated having the crap scared out of me every time the hydraulic clutch came on. Use the H1 fan, and the clutch from a mid 90s Chevy 1 ton. You also have to grind the protrusion on the...

And we wonder why the NP218 transfer case which did fine from 1985 until the Iraq war failed in almost every HMMWV.

If your shop van had been outfitted as a shop, there would have been two rows of workbenches which would rest on those strips. Removing them should be no prob.

For the Caiman II with the independent suspension? We have looked everywhere for these ETMs.

Current design OEM bed. Changed around 2005.