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Are you aware that the 804 used two different voltage regulators (VR)? Depending on which brand VR is used that the T1 Transformer, the R16 Resistor on the back of S12 and the front panel AV Voltage Adjust Potentiometer are different? Have you verified your set has the correct parts in it to...

Since you get power to the outlet with S1 in START it indicates the set if flashing and that the gen head should be OK. Now need to move on and see if there is an issue with the AC voltage regluation system. What brand of AC Voltage Regulator is in in it? Technology Research Corporation (TRC)...

Did you have power at the convenience outlet before you swapped the relays with S1 in START? With the relays swapped do you get power to the outlet with S1 in START and do you lose power there when you release S1 back to run?

That part of the job of the MPU. When the engine is up to speed and the MPU detects the RPM and causes the starter to be disabled. It also enables flashing at the same time.

Based on your measurements it indicates K15 is the problem. Odd because relays rarely fail. What should be happening is K15-7 gets 24 volts when the engine is up to speed. When you move S1 to START K15 closes and should pass the 24 volts on terminal 7 to terminal 4. However you are measuring 0...

OK Now with S1 in START measure the DC voltage at K15-7 K15-4 Also see if you see the K15 relay open and close as you move S1 from RUN to START and back to RUN while it's running.

OK now do these checks... With S1 in START measure the DC voltage at A5-18 A5-19 A5-20

All these tests must be done with the engine running. The MPU has to detect the engine is up to RPM before the field flash circuit can operate.

With S1 in START measure the DC voltage at A5-18 A5-19 A5-20

Now check K15 Terminal A then Terminal B with S1 held in start. A should be ~24 volts and B should be ~0 volts.

Was that with S1 held in START?

As far as I can see there is nothing special about R16. Just a 1 ohm, 5%, 1 watt resistor with a couple of wire lugs crimped onto it. Should cost ~$0.50 to make.

I assume you mean R16 is missing?

Will post up what I find regarding the relay once i get an inverter to tear into. A friend has 3 dead ones I can dig into. He should be stopping by as soon as this weekend.

The black relay cube on the top circuit board is the one that changes the inverter from 120 to 120/240 operation. In 120 mode it puts the two inverters inside it in parallel. I've had the inverters apart but didn't attempt to locate the K6 & K8 relay. Having those two signals from P/J 17 go to...

Good to hear!

Don't attempt it. You will destroy the inverters!

I used a reducer and a short nipple to use it. I cut a slit in the wall of the flex pipe to make it easier to take it on and off. Hose clamp to secure it. The same piece of flex pipe exhaust is used on my 831's. All depends on which set I need to run in my garage.

Di you have good battery(s) in the set? Are you using the electric starter or pull starting it? If you have batteries in it the with S1 in RUN but not running depress the Reset button on the A2 fault monitor and see if all the lamps illuminate. They should. Two circuits can cause K12 to...

When I poked around back there in my new to me 802 there was evidence of past rodent damage to the wires on the big terminal block in there. Damage to the insulation had been "repaired" with what looked like calking or RTV.