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It may be a stuck float. You may be able to reach into the tank thru the fuel filler and free the float. Had that happen to one of my 831's. If you can't get your arm in there you may be able to use a flashlight to see and something else to free the float.

PM sent

When you start the set and hold S1 in the START position you ought to get ~120 VAC at the convenience outlet and see normal voltage on the sets AC voltmeter. If you do that confirms the generator will put out power and the flashing function is working. When a set is running normally and with no...

I built a simple cart out of 4 pieces of 2x6, 1/4" bolts and 4 casters. Works great for wheeling it around my garage and outside when I need to use it. The 802 "locks" onto it and can't slide off.

Yes that's a good sign!

The set should show AC voltage on the meter when you start it and hold the main switch (S1) in the START position after it starts. When you release S1 to the Prime/Run position the AC output will cease if the fuse is blown. Holding S1 in the START position causes the set to Flash the generator...

Glad to help you out!

For now install the jumper knowing the risk. Use the electric start and close the contactor so you can charge your battery bank for now. We can address another way to do the test later.

When you have time and you've charged you batteries please do the following test. Leaving S1 in the STOP position lift the actuator off the magnet. Press the compression relief lever. Pull start the set. Measure the AC voltage across the A & B terminals on the Governor Controller. Shut the...

Weird....

In a pinch you can bypass all the safety systems by installing a jumper wire between S5-5 and chassis ground. This will allow you to close the contactor by using S5. **** Doing so will prevent the set from opening the contactor due to any fault **** Proceed at your own risk

Since the speed is cycling up and down and the set isn't shutting off correctly the next thing to check is the spring on the mechanical governor. Below is a picture showing which hole in the arm that the heavy green spring needs to be hooked thru at each end. The picture is with the mechanical...

If the engine RPM is too high and it doesn't shut off properly it leads me to suspect the linkage on the mechanical governor isn't adjusted properly. At no load the gap between the magnet and the "target" on the governor arm should be ~5/16". If the gap is too wide it can cause problems with...

Those reading make much more sense :) Your readings are indicating either an issue inside the inverter (K8 inside the inverter is not closing) or wiring external to the inverter has an issue. Another possibility is that the engine is running at too low an RPM. With the set running measure the...

As I mentioned earlier something isn't right with the DC voltage readings you reported. The very first one is K12-12. That terminal is suppose to be tied to ground so the voltage there should always be 0 volts DC. So Lets start over... Open the control cubes and lower it. Connect your meters...

Something is amiss with your readings. I'd expect either ~0 VDC or ~24 VDC at each reading point. Readings around 12-13 volts are not right. Readings need to be done with S5 held in the UP position. The first one that's not right is K12-12. That terminal on K12 is tied to ground and the...

Sorry.... haven't tackled that yet.

It bolts up in the exact same spot as the stock VR. Pictures of one installed are here ---> Replacement VR

First thing to look at is the far left relay inside the panel. This is K12 the fault relay. If the tiny LED inside it is lit then there is a fault and the contactor will not close. Is K12's LED on when the set is running? If K12's LED is off... Here are a sequence of test steps to narrow down...

Do you have a hand held meter and are you proficient at using it?