Search results

When starting be sure to hold the S11 switch in START long enough for oil pressure to build. If you release S1 too quick it will fault possibly causing what you are seeing. Sounds like your set is detecting a fault and tripping the K12 relay. When you have the problem drop down the access...

It's not the same. The one for supporting a conventional gen head swap has a number of other functions besides the task of governing engine speed. The SLC100 replacement varies the engine speed based on load applied so that the inverter is supplied with adequate power from the PMA. As I...

Inverters can occasionally be had off of ebay. A buddy of mine picked one up a couple of weeks ago. I tested it for him and it worked perfect. You have another option if you strike out finding an inverter. That's to remove the PMA and install a conventional generator head on the engine. I've...

F03A125V30A is the part number from the -24P TM.

Looks like it's rated for 200 amps Bendix 52-12 Specs See page 6

Sorry, missed the order minimum. They are also available from Digikey Electronics in smaller quantities.

I did a bit of searching and Essentra makes one that's nearly identical to the OEM version that Guy mentioned above. They have them for $0.11 each. ---> Essentra Ratchet Rivet An alternative should you strike out finding the FASTEX version.

OK, now you need to see if the set is trying to flash the field. Measure the DC voltage across the voltage regulator terminals 5 & 6. You should get ~ 7.6 volts DC when the set is flashing (S1 in the START position with set running) If you get way less than that or zero then you may have an...

Agreed, do what DieselAddict said about manual starting. I've forgotten and not done that and just about yank my arm out of the socket. If if didn't shut down it's likely there was a fault and power was already removed from the GC by the fault relay. Have seen this many times. Let me know...

Looks like the PN for the lower spring is Yanmar 114250-66200

When you start it hold S1 on the START position after it starts. See what voltage you get. Then realase S1 to Prime/Run and see what voltage you get. Post up your findings.

Here is a link to download GAC's adjustment procedure. It has a step or two that the -13 TM doesn't include. It covers the tweek that may be needed to the black knob position that CallMeColt mentioned above. Link---> Adjustment Procedure

You have a few problems from what I can see in your pictures. The first BIG one is the black knob on the front of the mechanical governor plate is in the STOP position. You need to loosen the knob and move it as far as it will toward the START position and then tighten the knob. The two...

For those looking for a mate to the Aux Fuel inlet.. ---> Aux Fuel Fitting

Possibly here ---> Oshkosh

You're most welcome!

Yes requires returning just the controller card to me so I can add your homes WiFi router credentials to it. No charge to do that update other than return shipping.

A few internet connectivity enhancements have been made to the Remote Start kits that I offer. Here are the current connectivity options... 1) The original version (AKA Version 1) provids a direct WiFI link between your smart phone and the controller - no router or internet required. Great...

It appears your new one is made for an 804A

All the part numbers can be looked up in TM 9-6115-641-24P The TM can be downloaded from the TM section of the forum.