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The LEDs are getting much much better. Agree about the flashlights. My older LED Surefire flashlights aren’t as bright as my newer ones.

My last post wasn’t meant for you specifically. Just general info for anyone who is thinking about a set. Truck-Lites are made in USA. Not sure about Grote. All others, as you mentioned, made in China.

LEDs are not known for throwing a lot of light downrange. Very bright in close but drops off rapidly the further out it goes. (Like any light, but more pronounced with LEDs). Definitely getting better but not there yet. The current aviation LED searchlights are crazy expensive and suck to put...

If it is a GP controller card, new improved ones are available from SS member AntennaClimber. Always a good idea to have a spare card handy.

Common problem for those jacks. Fixable, but a PITA. A lot of guys ditch that jack and go with a side mount M1101/2 style 5k jack. Still grease-able and a lot stronger internals. I don’t own your style jack and the above info is what I’ve read in older threads. My trailers have the...

It’s part of the Dismal Tide. It will only get worse.

If he doesn’t I would be surprised. That guy seems to have multiples of every part made for CUCVs Definitely has helped me a lot!

If it is a bearing, I would go ahead and replace them all and all seals also. While more initial effort and expense, it will be better than doing it again and again when they fail one at time.

Did it fail or was it missing?

Triangle Springs are excellent quality. They are also a ISO certified company. Where did you get your springs?

Most guys here go with the ACDELCO 60Gs. Self limiting and a very good and reliable plug. Glow plugs are very easy to change. I don’t know what the ohms should be for that specific plug. Never considered Bosch plugs. Is your system stock or modified?

27450C I believe. I posted a thread about installing a set.

You get what you pay for. My Truck-Lites have been flawless.

The new relay completely solved the problem. Truck starts as great as it did before. It’s also a LOT easier to change than the ignition switch on top of steering column.

Checked coil today with Fluke Digital Multimeter. Coil failed Open circuit zero ohm reading.

Ok It was just a friendly FYI. I’m always listening to the engine, etc. for any abnormal sounds. Flying helicopters for almost 30 years will do that to you.

The screwdriver made a direct connection between the large lugs. The coil could have been completely gone and the screwdriver method would have worked. Coil would not energize for whatever reason. Screwdriver simply bypassed it

If you don’t already have one, get a good digital multimeter. You will use it often.

All the time spent reading posted info and old threads paid off. Having another SS member to double check my thinking was a big help also. Agree that no part is infallible. They can and will fail at some point.

All original, with very few exceptions! The DH modification being one of them. The other is when I installed RPM, Water temp, trans temp and oil pressure gauges.