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They all appear equally surface rusted. Might it just be due to humidity causing surface rust? The heads of the screws look the same as the ones on the terminal strip in my 1997 802.

kb3bf Sent you an email with a number of pictures, design info and my firmware that I'm beta testing. The programming is in C++. First time I used C++ was for this project. Pretty easy to pick up once. Lot's of good syntax reference help on the Auduino website. I commented the heck out of...

Remember you'll only be getting 208 volts and not 240 volts.

Yes it gets inserted from the outside. just slide it in until the shoulder of the wellnut is against the tank. You ought to by able to hold the shoulder of the wellnut until it expands a bit.

No need to disconnect the battery before connecting the charger.

Just a hunch... Looks like water may have gotten into the frequency meter. I just noticed the lens is rust colored around the meter movement and the face of the meter looks discolored. It's possible just the meter movement is rusted up and you may only need a new meter.

Take a look at TM 9-6115-642-24 It has the steps to test the transducer and the meter. Basically the transducer should put out 0.1 milliamps at 60 Hz or 0.2 milliamps at 65 Hz. The meter is a milliammeter that is 0.2 milliamps at full scale.

FYI - Links to items on auction sites aren't allowed to be posted on the forum.

That switch controls both the voltmeter and the ammeter. Daybreak has a new one for sale http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?153273-MEP-802-803-panel-components

Not sure the epoxy would hold well. Some people install Pop Nuts in those spots so they don't have to deal with getting a wrench into the tough spots.

I suppose you could. One normally wouldn't ever have to replace CR1. If you don't find the short then you may want to do this. The potential short that took out the original diode may reappear in the future and find yourself needing to replace CR1 again. Seems a bit odd the design uses a 3 amp...

Correct. The Start circuit is "smart" and will disengage the starter after it starts even though you are holding the switch in the Start position. No harm will come if you hold the switch in start for a 5 seconds or longer. You need to hold it in Start for the oil pressure to build and the...

Possibly you released the switch too early? It will immediately shut down due to lack of adequate oil pressure build up if released prematurely. Upon starting you have to hold S1 in the START position until it comes up to speed and the oil pressure has come up. Then release the switch. My...

1 & 2. You ought to be able to do the repair with the panel in the genset. Just a bit difficult to access it via the drop down panel opening. Might be easier to remove the top cover for better access to it. CR1 is soldered to the standoffs. Instead of soldering a new on in right away you...

Just be sure the two chargers negative outputs aren't tied to the chargers ground. I made that mistake once aua

Guy, I only worked for Raytheon in Massachusetts. Did 35 years there doing design, development and field support until I retired last year. No offense taken. :beer: Just wanted to give a little perspective from the supplier side.

:roll: I worked my career at Raytheon and dealing with those returned chassis and circuit cards was part of my job. :-? Spent many years designing and developing the test equipment used to test those assemblies in both production and to test the ones that came back from the field. True...

Two possibilities come to mind. 1) Could be the frequency transducer or the frequency meter is bad. Wiring could be an issue too. 2) You are running the 803 at a speed that is less than 55 hertz The voltage adjust will not change the frequency, only adjusting the engine speed will. You ought...

PM'd you for a couple of them. Kurt

A couple of manuals for the MEP-16C http://manuals.chudov.com/Military-Generators/MEP-016C/