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My 1997 802A gauges have openings for light sockets. Here's one of my gauges with the light socket opening. The opening is 5/8". Did some research and found the Dorman 85805 socket is a match for the gauge opening. Got them from Rockauto.com for $1.63 each Fit's perfectly in the gauge...

To be honest I haven't gotten back to it. Let's just say life here has been :cookoo: hectic here. Not conducive to making a lot of racket running the genset just outside the house. Probably June 1st before I get back to seriously working on the project.

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Terminals 2,4,6,8 in S1 should have ~+24 volts on them. They are all tied together. You'll need to have the Emergency Off button in the out position, the Dead Crank Switch in the NORMAL position and CB1 closed to enable +24 to get to the S1 Master switch. The path is: Battery +24 ---> Dead...

Here is the continuity map. (Ignore the double images. They are both the same) You can also search for a 75902LV switch. It's not plastic and is a good rugged drop in replacement for the original switch. Got mine a couple of years ago on the big auction site for ~$40

Correct :-)

It's not the AM/VM switch that sets the 803 to 3 phase mode. You need to set the output voltage phase selector switch that's on the back wall inside the meter/relay compartment. Gotta drop the meter panel open to get to it.

See page 2-2 in TM 9-6115-642-10 for terminals used in 3 phase. Also see the electrical diagram on page almost at the end of TM 9-6115-642-24. It's F0-1 Electrical Schematic and shows L0

Yes. 4 Lugs. In 3 phase L1, L2, L3 are the 3 phase outputs and L0 is the Neutral

For safety I'd think you'd want the L14-30R on the end of the 10/4 cord from the genset and the barn connector should be a L14-30P. Wouldn't want to have HOT prongs on the cord from the genset.

The big auction site by searching the NSN #.

You can get oddly high readings if the contacts in the selector switch on the front panel are not making perfect contact. The circuit for the load meter are switched in that switch and contact resistance will goof up the current reading. You can try to "exercise" the selector switch to polish...

How abut one of these for a power inlet? http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-Black-125V/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459539040&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+power+inlet

Pressing the lights is only a self test of the bulb. It does not "reset" anything. Normally you should only have to toggle the interrupter switch to the CLOSE position for a moment for the contactor to latch closed. Could be an intermittent connection somewhere, a flakey contact in a number of...

As for simple checks... 1) If you HOLD the contactor switch in the CLOSE position do you get any power from the output terminals? If holding the switch in the CLOSE position makes power at the output terminals then SKIP the following checks. If you have a voltmeter you can check for ~24 volts...

Yes - the AC interrupter switch must be toggled to the CLOSE position after each time it's started to enable power to the output terminals. The 10A convenience outlet always has power regardless of the interrupter state. Any fault lights on after you start it or after you attempt to close the...

Did you toggle the contactor close switch after starting it? Did the contactor closed light go on?

Actually it should be... 1. Upon starting the generator, the load contacts on the contactor (A1-A2, B1-B2) will be OPEN. The indicator light on the control panel should be OFF. 2. Flipping the AC circuit interrupter switch to CLOSE and then allowing it to return to center will CLOSE the load...

Just keep watching the auction listings and you may/will stumble upon one at a reasonable price. I trolled GL for about a year before scoring mine. It was a 1994 802 with ~1,400 hours on it. Non runner when I picked it up from Ft. Meade. $833 including tax & premium. A few relatively easy to...

Guy - Do you have a suggested AIRTEC pump part number to replace the Facet?