MEP-802A fuel tank removal.

[Guyfang]

Something else to remember about the convenience receptacle. While it is protected by the Ground Fault Isolator, (GFI) the main lugs are not. Always get them tight, but they are real easy to over tighten and strip the threads out. They are a PITA to when you have screwed the threads up. I have no idea why the military bought that non conducting wrench. No one in there right mind would fool around with the load terminals with the set putting out power. And with the rope attached to the set and wrench? Simply stupid.

 

[kb3bf]

Hi haven't seen any wrenches, where would it be stored?
Roger on the threads, and yes I would not mess with the generator power wise unless grounded and off line.

What is that bar under the left side of the skid, is it somehow the wrench in question?
I haven't figured out how to remove it and it interferes with a pair of panel bolts.

It wouldn't be a bad generator had they done a better job with less hardware. I hope to be able to fire it up soon now that the fuel tank is going back in.
I want to prime the system and check the fuel flow and pressure without starting the generator, should I power the fuel pump from a separate 24V source and dump the fuel back into the tank?

 

[Chrispyny]

Hi haven't seen any wrenches, where would it be stored?
Roger on the threads, and yes I would not mess with the generator power wise unless grounded and off line.

What is that bar under the left side of the skid, is it somehow the wrench in question?
I haven't figured out how to remove it and it interferes with a pair of panel bolts.

It wouldn't be a bad generator had they done a better job with less hardware. I hope to be able to fire it up soon now that the fuel tank is going back in.
I want to prime the system and check the fuel flow and pressure without starting the generator, should I power the fuel pump from a separate 24V source and dump the fuel back into the tank?

The wrench is grey in color, large and barely fits in its holder to the right of the output lugs. You would know it if you saw it. The bar you refer to certainly isn't the wrench.
The unit is self priming unless you cracked the fuel injector lines. So put it back together, put it on prime, and wait 2 minutes while priming and watch for leaks. Then start her up.

 

[Chrispyny]

Something else to remember about the convenience receptacle. While it is protected by the Ground Fault Isolator, (GFI) the main lugs are not. Always get them tight, but they are real easy to over tighten and strip the threads out. They are a PITA to when you have screwed the threads up. I have no idea why the military bought that non conducting wrench. No one in there right mind would fool around with the load terminals with the set putting out power. And with the rope attached to the set and wrench? Simply stupid.

I bought a wrench from Delks a couple months ago as mine came with everything BUT the wrench. I figured it would come in handy. Completely useless. I dunno if i got a bigger one from an 803, but i can't even get it on a lug and turn it for lack of room to rotate it. Waste of money. I just use a crecent wrench and call it a day.

 

[Korgoth1]

I cut half the handle off of all mine, it fits in the holder better, and is actually usable on the lugs this way.

 

[Korgoth1]

Hi haven't seen any wrenches, where would it be stored?
Roger on the threads, and yes I would not mess with the generator power wise unless grounded and off line.

What is that bar under the left side of the skid, is it somehow the wrench in question?
I haven't figured out how to remove it and it interferes with a pair of panel bolts.

It wouldn't be a bad generator had they done a better job with less hardware. I hope to be able to fire it up soon now that the fuel tank is going back in.
I want to prime the system and check the fuel flow and pressure without starting the generator, should I power the fuel pump from a separate 24V source and dump the fuel back into the tank?

Are you referring to the ground rod?

 

[kb3bf]

Korgoth1

Many thanks!, thats what it must be. However I have not been able to free it yet. Any ideas? I need to read the manual more carefully. The **** thing drove me nuts cause I could not insert a socket skinny enough to free the two bolts holding the left side corner panel. I'll try it again when it stops raining here in the Mid Atlantic region.

All you guys are great, helping a MEP newbie like me.
Hopefully when I get this generator working again I will promote myself to MEP-PFC! How many more before I deserve SGT?

 

[kb3bf]

i only replaced some of the soft fuel lines and the return line to the fuel tank, so hopefully it should prime itself after a while. During priming I will monitor the yellow line for any air bubbles. If that does not work I will check the fuel pump and what the manual says about checking it. If anyone has pump performance advice I am all ears/eyes. At least I am done reinstalling the fuel tank which now is a lot cleaner than it was when I removed it.

 

[Guyfang]

kb3bf,

Yes, you could look at the manual a little more. The parts manual would have explained what the ground rod was. AND, you can see how to remove it. I was sorta like you before the military "fixed" me. My dad said that some people learn by reading. Some people learn by watching. And I just had to pee on the electric fence. We may not have seen eye to eye on a lot of stuff, but he got me there!

After you run the set in prime, like Chrisspyny explained, I think you should turn the set over with the dead crank (S-10) switch. Just in case. maybe 30-40 seconds, then take a gander inside for leaks. Then crank her over with the Start switch, S-1. Why? Well, lets just say I once started up a set that I had reassembled, and had about a million tiny coolant leaks. Nothing serious, but added together, made a mess. I also would run it for an hour with water. Water doesn't cost as much as coolant, in case she leaks.

 

[Guyfang]

Electric Pump performance. Rule of thumb is it should fill up a coffee cup in less then 30-40 seconds.

 

[kb3bf]

Electric Pump performance. Rule of thumb is it should fill up a coffee cup in less then 30-40 seconds.

Thanks. Perfect visualization of flow rate! just about the rate I can p** in a cup also, but with age that is getting slower. The pumps's age of course
I assume the pump pulsates? which is what it sounds like. Maybe that explains why both pumps show high resistance windings at about 30KOhms.

You mentioned in a previous post I should replace the "pin" but I was not able to locate any. ?
I appreciate all the advice, really very valuable.

Got to get this rascal going before heading to Ramstein GE in about 10 days. By the time I get back I will have forgotten what I did to it and the weather here in Md is not cooperating.

 

[Guyfang]

Yeah, the pump pulsates. Fast when you disconnect the line!! What you doing in K-town? Gime me a shout when you get in. Its 399 klicks from my house to K-town, and I have my hands full right now at home. So I cant run up and meet you. My number is:01725329927

 

[Guyfang]

The pin I was talking about was to the plug on the fuel pump. From the picture it looks like one wire to the plug was routed on a red wire next to the plug.

 

[kb3bf]

Oh it is such a pleasure to use new SS hardware when remounting the panels.
I reinstalled the tank and replaced all the fuel soft lines. Most everything else looks fine.
I am going to switch pumps and use the aux one.

I am mounting the radiator next. There was a lot of crud in the radiator. I used a mixture of vinegar and water to descale it and flushed it about half a dozen times till water came out clean. For some reason the engine was much cleaner.

If everything looks wet it is because it is raining on and off here for days, and more is in the forecast. I was tempted to drill some holes on the generator floor to prevent water from piling up, but then decided not to. There must be a reason why there are no drain holes. Anyhow the generator is covered when I am not working on it.

I wish I could move the generator to the garage, but it is in the backyard and the ground is so soggy that my Chevy Avalanche will sink in the mud. Anybody know how to do an anti-rain-dance so I can get it to stop raining here? Is that done backwards, upside down or both?

 

[kb3bf]

Yeah, the pump pulsates. Fast when you disconnect the line!! What you doing in K-town? Gime me a shout when you get in. Its 399 klicks from my house to K-town, and I have my hands full right now at home. So I cant run up and meet you. My number is:01725329927

Hi Col Guyfang,
I am part of a team and we are involved in microwave comms (as an rf engineer), which all I can say here. I'll try to give you call mid March. I have been coming here for the past 40 yrs. I love Germany, although I am native of the Lake Garda area.

 

[Guyfang]

Whoooooooooooooooooooooo, I been promoted!! Hot ****. I never made it that far in real life. My name is Guy wiltfang, and yeah, give me a call.

OK, I understand microwave. We had a wonderful, but problematic device called an AMG, while I was in PATRIOT. It was/is a PITA to keep up in the air, but when it worked, we had nice commo and data transfers. Take a shot of the fuel pumps. In the old days, they were not interchangable. But I heard that the army was going to fix that.

Use teflon tape on all the thredded connections on the fuel system. That way you dont have to tighten them up so hard, and it gives you a better seal.

 

[kb3bf]

Whoooooooooooooooooooooo, I been promoted!! Hot ****. I never made it that far in real life. My name is Guy wiltfang, and yeah, give me a call.

OK, I understand microwave. We had a wonderful, but problematic device called an AMG, while I was in PATRIOT. It was/is a PITA to keep up in the air, but when it worked, we had nice commo and data transfers. Take a shot of the fuel pumps. In the old days, they were not interchangable. But I heard that the army was going to fix that.
Use teflon tape on all the thredded connections on the fuel system. That way you dont have to tighten them up so hard, and it gives you a better seal.

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Send me email if you are ok with it and when you have time.
ccffaazziiATrocketmail.com (divide all the letters before the @ in half).
name: Chris(tian) Fazi.
I have a couple questions to ask about best ways getting around GE (FRA to Berlin).

 

[kb3bf]

Whoooooooooooooooooooooo, I been promoted!! Hot ****. I never made it that far in real life. My name is Guy wiltfang, and yeah, give me a call.

OK, I understand microwave. We had a wonderful, but problematic device called an AMG, while I was in PATRIOT. It was/is a PITA to keep up in the air, but when it worked, we had nice commo and data transfers. Take a shot of the fuel pumps. In the old days, they were not interchangable. But I heard that the army was going to fix that.

Use teflon tape on all the thredded connections on the fuel system. That way you dont have to tighten them up so hard, and it gives you a better seal.

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the body of the pumps are the same, just the extensions are slightly different.

 

[Guyfang]

Yup, and that means you have to bend the fuel line to get the Aux pump to fit in where the primary was bolted on. If the pump works, don't fool with it. Bending the steel fuel line is not good. If you ever need a new pump, get an AIRTEC. its round and a better pump. BUT, it needs a small extension to hook it up in the Primary fuel pump position.

 

[kloppk]

Guy - Do you have a suggested AIRTEC pump part number to replace the Facet?