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Silver brazing (Silfoss) would be a good choice, and with Copper wire/bussbar no flux is necessary. It will do fine with a MAPP gas torch from a good hardware store. Clean up both surfaces and go for it!

Most single-phase motors pull around 600% of running current to get up to speed. Unless it is an inverter-type genset, the 60Hz freq (speed) goes down and things go awry. The problem with small gensets is that kind of demand has a lower load impedance than the alternator, and can't provide...

Once I had a deuce with the 17' expansible van on it. My M543 wrecker was at the end of it's rope, so to say, lifting it enough to drive the truck out from under it. Those boxes are ungainly heavy! I pulled it because it was bent up by DRMO or some unit such that it couldn't be expanded, so...

Hey, if it's not a rust bucket, there is nothing too hard to get fixed there. Having a winch is a very good deal there. What kind of goofy headlight is that?

A manual transmission is a Millennial anti-theft device in it's own right!

My M54A1 came with one, still has it. I've seen other rigs with a single chain link welded to the shifter. Loop the chain thru the wheel, lock it to the shifter in gear.

Sandblast only with remote breathing air...the dust can be toxic.

Excellent method there. Let's hear it for public education...

Precisely why the military just paints over the old stuff. Well neigh impossible to chemically remove it, as CARC stands for Chemical Agent Resistant Coating, including strippers.

Just curious, why remove the trailer air connections?

I suspect success running an air impact with a newer 5-ton is easier, as their air system is designed to support full air brakes. My '67 5-ton has air=over-hydraulic brakes, and the air demand is less than the others.

I bought a DRMO M37 years ago with a single stock fan blade sticking out of the hood... Guess they decided not to fix it at all.

You're lucky you didn't rupture your fuel tank with 100psi.

I have a 1" Chicago Pneumatic wrench and my M54A1 won't run enough air to take off more than 1 nut without a wait to rebuild air, even at high idle 2100 rpm. Apparently the line size is too small to deliver the required CFM. I solved it by using a larger portable tank, filled from the red...

Download all the free TM's for your truck off this website. Blow up a printer if you have to. Study them thru & thru, you'll be amazed at what you come to know.

NAPA has all the lugnuts you'll ever need: 1-1/2 nut with 3/4" fine thread LH & R/H. AKA "Budd nuts". L/H on the driver's side.

Why nobody sets up a hardmount 12V compressor and a small tank, & a "Johnny bar" to control the air brakes all those GI trailers come with. Far simpler than goobering up a nice trailer. eBay NAPA Plus, if you have an air hose to hook to your gladhand, tires that need air are not any...

Vacuum brakes suck. Tee hee.

I can't resist... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-diesel-m37.207039/#post-2464623

It seems the alcohol in today's gas eats up the rubber diaphragm in engine-driven fuel pumps, thinning the oil. There are a number of good electric pumps available, I've had good luck with Mallory. Just make sure to mount it back by the tank, not under the hood as new gas vapor-locks easier...