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Did a little digging. The only Oshkosh crash truck made in 1974 is the P4. It had the engine in the back, with the transmission pointing forward. So the front axle disconnect, if it has one, will be on the wrong side of the transfer case if you put the engine in the usual spot on your build.

This thread has a ton of info you are looking for: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?113634-Ever-see-inside-the-Protective-Control-Box/page3&highlight=protective I found this thread by searching for the term "protective" in the 5 ton forum.

We can help you don't give up. Pictures: Press "go advanced" then press "manage attachments" then press "add files" then press "select files", pick your picture from your device, then press "upload files". Do you have two hot batteries connected in series? Do your lights work? What happens...

Welcome. That was not used in any other military trucks that I am aware of. I would guess it is a single ratio 1:1, based on the "thinness" of the box (verify by turning yokes). Power would be applied to the upper drive yoke, and then would go through the "drop box" gears to the lower shaft...

Welcome. Your only hope to figure out what AFB your truck was assigned to is from markings that may be painted over on the bumpers. If from Ohio, only a few choices.

I would check that the return line is free flowing, check pressure on the IP side of the filter, check for bubbles in the supply line, if all is good, I would send the IP back for bench testing.

Hen's teeth!!!!! Extreeeeemly hard to find!!!!

Run an entirely new wire from a good ground location to one of the screws that attach the WTEC to the dash.

NO. They know all about auctioning yellow iron. This is their "first rodeo" in the surplus arena and boy does the inexperience show. What drives me nuts is them mixing in the state/local crap with the mil. None of us are looking for ragged out white pickups and rusted bush hogs.

I would guess the entire output of the LDT, about 100 horses? RPM is same as engine in 4th. This PTO drives water pumps on the fire truck and fueler, and hydraulic pump on the 108.

Oh look I had a picture!

Yes there is. It is quite difficult to find. There is a collar that is attached to the spline shaft, make sure you get it when buying the PTO. Also, there is an oil line that feeds the bearings in the PTO that is attached to the bottom of the transfer, you need that as well.

Wait, by three switches are you talking about the military light switch with 3 levers? If yes, your problem could be related to poor grounding of the WTEC keypad controller. Run a new ground wire to the controller/keypad and see if that resolves the issue.

That is your problem. By switches I assume you mean breakers? Remove the one you were wiggling (associated with WTEC control) and check it with an ohmmeter. If it is defective, you can replace it with a same amp breaker from an unneeded circuit like "warning light" or "radio".

Welcome. The WTEC controller has to be powered up "Lit N" in order to allow engine cranking. Take a look in the PDP (fuse box) for other breakers that are tripped or not seated well. The breaker locations are on a decal on the cover. The WTEC control has two breakers if I recall.

Yes, that is how it works in the scrap business. Someone here once said "someone could scrap the first Harley Davidson ever made and they would cut it up regardless". Best not to even think about all the great things that have been cut up.

That buckle is part of the AM/598/U power supply. Mine has the same strap. Keeps the radio from bouncing. I think those radios were good for a half mile when they were new, so don't get high expectations.

The FRP battery tray is just as hot as the battery. Looks like he does not have a cover and the sun has been shining on the battery.

Will need pictures of the battery box with a naked girl pointing to the battery in question. Too hot usually means overcharging. Have him recheck voltages.

Should not do that. Sounds like the inflate/deflate valve may have an issue. CTIS is unrelated.