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Use a pressure washer to remove most of the flaked CARC, and a scraper for the big chunks. Really yuo don't need to scuff it much; the CARC will soak up new paint like you wouldn't believe.

The early fording kit uses a different bracket than the later units with fender mount condensers. Not sure the specifics though

Lube order says OE/HDO-10 That's just a 10 weight oil. 10 weight oil is equivalent to ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Hy gard is between ISO 46 and 68 for viscosity It would probably work, but is a heavier weight, so might be a little slow, or might not. Low temp/arctic oil was OEA, which I can't find...

12 gauge is good for 20 amps, 14 gauge is good for 15 amps in the U.S. Just using "12 gauge high current 14 gauge low current" doesn't really cover what kinds of high or low current levels there might be; a 30 or 50 amp connection on the 240V side (or even a 30 or 50 amp 120V plug for an RV)...

Yes, water pump above the crank pulley, belts going off to the alternator and power steering pump (hidden)

There is no AC in that picture. As far as I know "factory" aircon didn't start until the M1114 series ECV trucks. Some 3 speed trucks did get the RedDot aircon, but that was an add on, and definitely not in your picture.

Cam is a member here, and his advice is always helpful.

Yeah, that looks kind of like I expected from the symptoms. You have a few options. 1:Try to rebuild the box by cleaning it up and replacing any fried components 2: replace the start box with new (you will need to also get matching TSU if using a different version of the box) 3: replace with...

14V tap won't affect anything in your truck. 3 Speeds trucks originally came with a 60 amp 24V only alternator, with nothing in the truck utilizing 12V. Need to stop focusing on the alternator; your erratic voltage is a symptom of the issue, not the cause in and of itself.

The rear battery is the one wired with the negative terminal to the DC shunt on the side of the battery box, and yes, it is towards the rear of the vehicle (if the batteries are properly installed and wired according to the diagrams) On some 3 speed trucks the 14V tap got wired directly to...

I usually just tell people I borrowed it from work...

Just to clarify, do you have a 3 speed truck or a 4 speed truck? Some 3 speed trucks have the 14V terminal on the 200 amp alternator wired to a ground point instead of the rear battery positive, so if that's the case then seeing 0V at it would be expected (not 0.8V, but sometimes weird readings...

According to the NEC if the generator and equipment are located on the same trailer or vehicle, then a grounding rod is not required. Generator on a trailer and equipment on the trailer doesn't really give an electrical path to shock someone if properly installed to the trailer (bonded...

Stop just throwing parts. Verify whether you have 24V at the solenoid when hot. If you do it may be a fuel system issue, if not it's electrical. At that point if it's electrical it may be a failure inside the start box. I'm not as up to speed on them, but if nothing else you can pull it...

Another possibility for an early serial number truck is the rear mount stud for the generator is sheared off and allowing the generator and PS to flex forward a little under load. I had this happen and could watch the belt move when the glow plugs were pulsing Just something else to check...

except that the 6.2 got replaced by the 6.5 detuned decades ago, so any truck that went though rebuild would receive a 6.5 to replace the 6.2, but kept the V-belt system.

Not specifically HMMWV related, but there are enough questions on here about towing the HMMWV that it should be relevant enough. So for years we've argued on here about using a U-haul car hauler trailer to tow a HMMWV. They didn't have one that they rated for the task, but that didn't stop...

Now only a day away

The Red Dot aircon system uses the dash fan circuit to activate the relay to operate it. That would be an easily accessible place to find switched 24V to activate a relay for larger 24V loads, or you could probably wire in a USB outlet that accepts 24V input to it as that would be minimal draw.

In this application only B and E are used. They are the two bigger pins. I don't remember which is positive and which is negative, but it would only take a minute or two at most with a multimeter to figure it out.