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I read on another post where a couple guys changed just the ferrules. Anyone have the Napa part #s. no good counterman work the part houses here anymore. If its not in their computer by year make and model they can't find it. I told him a 1966 M35A2 and he gave me a blank look...

I tried removing the center bolt but couldn't get it to break loose and I didn't want to break anything. Might try putting a breaker bar on it.

Thanks for the info. You can see the leak start at the #4 line. It pools around the treads then leaks into the rest of the pump. At idle it's a very slow leak.

I've got a leak where the #4 line screw into the HH. I've checked the head for cracks and none. It slowly seeps out from the threads of the line. I've replaced the line and that slowed it down but it will not seal completely. I tried rotating the line a little, and that didn't work. Any ideas...

Can you just cap it at where the line comes out near the bottom of the IP?

It doesn't get cold enough here to need anything. It's start on the first try every time.

I've search for this because I know I've seen an article mention it, but wasn't able to find it agains. The back of the igniter leaks fuel on to my turbo, ice taken it apart before and changed the o-ring and that seemed to work for a couple of years. What's the best way to bypass this thing? Can...

Took the lines back off and recleaned all the ports, even ran a small magnet on a stick in all the ports and flushed them out with carb cleaner, and reinstalled. Haven't seen a leak from the lines, but now I can see I have a leak where the HH mates with IP. Project for this weekend.....

Also, how tight is the middle bolt on top of the IP? I had a breaker-bar on it and couldn't loosen it. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped.

Took all the lines back off, recleaned all the ports, reconnected lines and was able to get #5 to stop leaking and #4 stopped at idle but still leaks a little under load.

Yeah I used I line wrench crows foot.

My pump is leaking out of the top where two of my injector lines connect to the pump. First I though it was old lines so I replaced them all with a new set. Still leaking from the same two lines. One did get better but still seeps above idle. Is there an easy fix or am I basically stuck changing...

Anyone know where I can get a drive shaft for a Bobbed Deuce. Needs to measure 55" did a search and turned up nothing, but the search on my phone isn't always great....

I just added new ball valves to the rear air lines (glad hands were removed and replaced with airtool coupling since I dont use a trailer). Still leaks air from somewhere but it take a couple days to completely bleed out now.

I know this is an older thread, but I'm needing to replace my #4 line. I saw TJN Murray had a set for $100, was wondering if anyone had a good spare they wanted to get rid of...

I start my deuce about once a week because I can't drive it with no rear axles under it. But lately I have to give the fuel pump in the tank a little love tap with a hammer to get it to kick on. Is this because of the current lack of use or do I need to look at replacing it? Nothing urgent...

That's what u figured, just wasn't 100% sure, thanks ridgerunner.

Right, but are you using the pins in the axle tube or welding the spring perch to the housing?

I did a couple searches and wasn't able to find anything on this. I am Bobbing my truck. I have the springs mounted and just got my u-bolts so i can mount the axle. Looking at the axle housing, I don't see where the alignment pins will be of much use when using the M105 springs. This is just at...

In an emergency situation I ran 85-140 gear oil because I was out of fuel and had 2.5 gallons of the gear oil in the tank. It took a bit to get everything primed, but it ran like a champ. Nearest station was about 5 miles away, added 10 gallons of diesel to get me home (where I filled up with WMO).