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Did you ever find a good shop? I actually am now in the Atlanta area, and have have a similar issue. I would like to just replace the springs entirely really.

Great. Thank you. Im going the same route.

Thank you. What are your feelings about the 4 leaf front springs? My front end is stock, no heavy bumper, plows etc... Do you remember what brand springs you used?

Does anyone have experience with replacement stock height leaf springs? I'm seeing 1400 and 1900 lb. rated front springs. The 1900 lb. version adds a leaf, and I'm guessing a little height as well. I don't wish to get into a great deal of lift related geometry changes, particularly if I can...

So my M1009 has been sitting without oil in it for about 6 weeks, I replaced the rear main seal, the oil pump, and added some Leroy diesel oil cooler lines. Is it necessary to prime the oil pump before restarting? I have heard mixed opinions. Some don't appear to do it, others just remove the...

Has anyone ever found an aftermarket source for weld in repair panels for the problem areas at the bottom corners of the windshield? I'm trying to keep my fabrication time to a minimum. Maybe a contact for someone who might have a donor cab to cut it from? I haven't pulled the windshield yet...

I'm installing a (24V) inverter in the back of my M1009. I plan to run 1/0 welding cable to replace th (2AWG) heading to the buss bars in the back. I will power the inverter from there. This left me to wonder, How much current can our bus bars handle safely? I suppose if nobody knows right off...

Badger Diesel just confirmed the extra stud to be a blind stud, from a converted pump. They answered my email nearly immediately. Seems like a decent place. I will begin the install next Saturday. Thanks for everything. I will update next weekend.

Im taking forever because I can only work at it it brief spurts, and honestly am probably a little over cautious. Thanks for your help. I became concerned when I saw that the new pump had an additional stud on it.

Im preparing to install a rebuilt IP. I wanted to insure that the shut off solenoid in my new pump was indeed the correct one. Do 12V and 24V versions exist? I have my truck apart, so I cant just manually test the input voltage to the IP myself. I also noticed that my new, rebuilt pump has an...

Thank you. Im on it...

I can feel a little play in the gear, but I don't believe it has likely rotated out of time. I actually have parts here to service my cooling system already. So if I start my engine, and indeed the timing has become "off", is that going to cause huge damage, or should I just do the cooling next...

I hope I haven't bent one of my new push rods... Although I don't see how, given the fact that I have simply removed and replaced, but then again, Im here to learn. My water pump is still on. Usually I just follow the the TM, step by step. I was just surprised to see the TM mentioning the...

So after I have re-installed the rocker arms, covers etc. I should then align the timing marks, and then install the IP? I was concerned about hand cranking the engine with the IP out. I was under the impression that the indexing pin on the part of the IP that attaches to the timing gear inside...

Im presently replacing my IP and injectors, and am painting my valve covers which were leaking. I noticed while I was in there that those little rocker retainer buttons looked old and brittle, so I replaced those, one rocker at a time. I also replaced the pushrods. I simply removed and replaced...

So there really isnt any "wear" components in there? Is it smart to relace those retainer buttons, check push rods, etc... My covers are leaking a bit, and I do plan to do the radiator at the same time.

I will be replacing my IP next week, and figured I would clean, paint, and reseal my valve covers while I have the lines removed. Any advice on how to access what I see when I remove the covers?

My oil pan had some severe rust on it, so I opted to replace it, as well as my oil pump while I had the pan off. I had the vehicle sitting for about a month with no oil in it, so I figured it prudent to prime the system a bit. I then removed the glow plugs, so the starter wouldn't have to fight...

Things so far have gone reletively smoothly. Time only allowed me to tackle the drivers side so far. I was able to drive the number 1 position core support bolt up and out with a drift punch and hammer. The two and three positions came out with a 24" breaker no problem. I did notice a while back...

I got lucky insofar as loosening them. To avoid having to lift the body up a mile, Is this possible: It looks like the bolts at the radiator support have access holes from which they can be removed. Can I remove those, then just drill out and replace the four in the back. That way I could just...