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You can do it on alt 1 only, Alt2 has to have an isolated ground. No way around it other than to convert to a 12volt system. And then you just get all sorts of cold starting problems and other stuff. And what would a cucv be without a 24v system . A "CIVI":(.

sounds like the voltage regulator. you can get the parts for around $40 and do it yourself in less than 1hr "30 min" if u done it b-4. its very easy to do.

May Just be the linkage. It can cause it if it is adjusted a little to short. If it shifts real easy thru the settings the nylon tabs are prob good. The 208 tends to get a little stiff when they loose the tabs. But There is only one way to know for shure. "Crack the case"

Any one running a dual fuel cng system on the 6.2? Or know of a site with info for a system that will work with a mechanical injection system?

Any one have a part number for the diode trio in the alternator. One for napa, advance, autozone or any of the common part stores? Thanks in advance

wow thats clean. what they do keep that thing in a sealed box for the last 30

give it 60 days, file a lean and call it yours. :shock:

trust me its a lot more easy to do with the eng pulled out and on a stand. But it can be done with it in.

welder and die grinder. Build it back up and shape it back down. If u gona do it in the truck u will likely have to pull the radiator to get enough room.

if you dont want an MV to leak dont park in the rain. :shock: I thought leaks came standard on cucv

had This happen to a 671 D and rprd it with a wire-feed welder and die grinder to build the key way back up enough to hold the key. Not easy and not quick and a real pain in the a$$ with it in the truck.

top of the rear output shaft houseing

same problem with mine. the vent is at the top of the case; I checked mine when I rebuilt it, to make shure it was clear. But I still have a slow leak at the front output shaft.

yes but its no longer a click. Its More of a clack. :jumpin:8-) I know I herd one once.

just wait for it. the gp relay stays on for about another 10 to 20 sec b-4 it goes off; I think the lift pump has a check valve and it it is leaking down and looseing prime it could be your truble

:ditto: if its that cold and you can get it to start after a lot of cranking, its most likely you lost prime for one reason or another; If it was a bad plug and you are still useing a resistor 24 v system they would all blow and it wouldent start at all

actually they BLOW "suck is just a figure of speech" :beer:

go to the parts store and get a case of pb and do the rest of the truck, make it all the same:lol:

make shure your tranny is in nutral and biv it a good working back and forth; mine did that . bad thing about it is it was a bad range fork and anulus drum bushing.

go to the parts store and rent a steering wheel and lock puller kit. it will come off if done correct. and the lock cylinder does actuate a rod down to the switch under the dash. just look at the TM has the info on how to replace the lock cylinder.