Search results

I have been more of a reader and absorber of information than a contributor, but I do want to say thank you to all who have helped me over the past few years. Sadly, I have sold my 1009. She was a pretty fun trip overall. Lots of busted knuckles, swear words, and sweat, really, but fun...

I've read through the various posts and was left with a few questions, so I dug in and got busy with mine. I found that the Performance Tool part #W151P from Oreilly's works just fine. The main bolt is a perfect fit for the crankshaft. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. It is marketed as a "puller", but...

I've been a member of this site for about 4 years. I rarely post, mainly because I have spent most of my time perusing the vast amount of information and knowledge here. I finally got my 1009 up and running after an engine swap, with the ensuing nightmare of hooking it all back together. I had...

I will do that...all this input has helped me a lot...thx

Ok. Pulled the instrument panel today to clean the circuit board. It was in pretty good shape, but I cleaned it anyway. The bulb on Gen 1 was good. I cleaned the connectors on the voltmeter gauge. It was in good shape, but I did it anyway. The Gen1 light came on when I turned they key. Yay. The...

o1951, thanks for the input. When I get a chance, I will try pulling the voltmeter off the dash and see what I get. Pulling it sounds like a PITA. lol. I will check all the grounds and post my final results.....again. Might be a few days. For now, she runs like a top, and it couldn't come at a...

Here is the final deal. It all appears to be the short pos cable to 24v bar on firewall that was the culprit. After replacing it and all the rest of the battery cables, she now seems to be running ok with no sparking. Its getting 14.6 volts on the rear battery, 14.4 volts on the front, with 29...

o1951, I will get more accurate readings of the batteries in tandem; I was just kinda ballparking it. I haven't checked since I put all new cables between the batteries and the buss bars on the firewall. I will probably get to that tomorrow or the next day..and I am not sure what you mean by...

Ok. When she is running, both batteries individually read 13+ volts on my voltmeter, and 25 when checking batteries in tandem. This tells me the alternators are charging them properly. With these readings, the volt gauge in the cab shows green, but just barely. I may replace the gauge and see...

Ok. After Action Review, AAR for short. She cranks up just fine for now after replacing that one cable. No more fireworks. I still need to track down why the voltmeter shows yellow on start up, as I think it should show green, then yellow when the gp's engage, then back to green. It does go to...

Update. After voltmeter-ing everything, I started replacing battery cables. I started with the one from the 24v buss bar to the rear battery, using one I had on hand. Although the volt gauge in the cab showed yellow, the **** thing started right up as if nothing had ever been wrong. I see your...

Tested the gpr.. With key off 12v to top post, the rest 0v. With key on 12v at all posts except the bottom post, and it had a reading that started at 15 and began counting down towards zero..but never made it there before I took the test lead off. Not sure what to make of that. While cranking, I...

Update. Last night I cranked it over, still got some sparks from rear battery pos post, but not as much. Then I noticed the wire with the fusable link going from rear battery negative post to diamond 12v by the gpr was hot to touch and smoking. This is new. The fusable link does not appear...

It appears to me that I have the isolated ground alternator on the passenger side, and correctly wired. Tonight, I pulled the glow plugs, hooked up the batteries as indicated, and was able to crank the motor without sparks and bleed the fuel, at least somewhat. Feeling upbeat, I placed new GP's...

Warthog, as far as moving the alternators, yes, I have. They were off the same motor, but were dismounted for a short period of time while I installed the motor. In looking further in many posts here at SS, I have seen where alternators can cause sparking on the rear battery. I do not recall...

The above pics should show enough details as to how I have things hooked up. It was this way when I had success turning it over without the sparks after tightening the loose doghead relay and the S wire from starter. Mystified.

I just attempted to make a video, but the Kansas sunset is just to powerful. I will get on this tomorrow morning and see what you all think. I do appreciate your help, but the video I just made is not of good quality. thanks...Jim

o1951, I ran back and forth from computer to garage after reviewing your diagram. I have no reason to believe or suspect that the alternator wiring is wrong. From engine to chassis, I have all the straps and wires from the rear of the block to chassis. The NEG post rear battery also has a wire...

Ok. So...to follow up on my last communication..... Today I got two new 1050 CCA batteries, type 31, to continue where I left off on my last post. I had tightened the doghead relay and S wire on the starter. My intent was, after having successfully cranked the motor with no fireworks at that...