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I havent messed with it yet. I use a dearborn ive had for years. I used to use an old cat et clone that worked fine it just fell apart one day. If you have a c7 truck and can’t connect you have to select canbus in the settings.

You can get a nexiq clone for around 200 it will connect much easier.

Yes do you need the tcm and keypad or just tcm? What is your trans serial?

Heat gun warm up the cab back window seal and pop it out with a plastic fork tool. Little silicone spray can help too.

Maybe the computer wants to see a certain engine temp before doing full high idle. There may be a setting in the ecm.

The pedal return is a combination of the pedal itself and the return spring on the motor. You can do a better spring to start. I have used the boot there, filled it with some lubricant and used air to push it thru the cable. If your pedal is worn thats going to be one of the bigger issues though

Theres a grouped ground under the power panel thats been knows to cause issues

Alot of the used ones on ebay are base maintenance take out that went in the scrap bin and were picked out by someone at the scrap yard

Came off a fmtv based caiman mrap that was being scrapped. I have a few of them

I have one here I think

Bad batteries will cause the alt to go into an over charge and shut down or shut the trans tcm down. Very common and it will appear as a bad alt. It could be a bad alt but I would go with batts first.

I would swap the tcm see if thats the issue. Post a pic of your tcm label

The grid heater solenoid is a common failure. Are you sure the heater is actually coming on

Maybe something caused the truck to loose excite voltage. The white wire on the front regulator terminal needs to have 24v when running or the alt will just spin and not make power. I believe the way the truck was intended to operate, when oil pressure comes up once the engine starts it triggers...

Maybe bad ground. Try adding a big negative wire from the batts negative to a sanded spot on the main frame rail. There are relays under the power board that control 12 and 24 volts to the panel. The panels can develop bad solder joints. Relays go bad over time.

The battery voltage code is the one you want to hunt down first. Replace relays clean breaker panel tabs. Polarity box connections etc. Low voltage or loss of will cause all kinds of codes.

They are not the same. I have replacement ones

If you have an a1 truck, with that black controller you can plug in and see whats going on.

Maybe bad ground and power feeding back somewhere