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I had the 3-4 shift problem with mine, new synchros did not help, then someone on the forum said that a bad input shaft bearing would cause this problem. I pulled the tranny, the bearing was really bad, replaced it and it shifted perfectly.

get a small person to help you, friend of mine had the same problem, he is a big man and he had large hands. He asked me to help him because I had done it on my truck. I weigh 130 lbs and my hands were about half the size of his. Even for me I struggled a littlle. Not a fun job.

I do the battery thing, who would want to steal one of these things anyway, they are a lot of work and they suck up a lot of money.

I guess I am old school, I traced the outline on a piece of 1/4 inch flat stock and used a cutting torch.

I had the same problem on mine, after new gages and sending unit I found the ground wire in the harness was broken. ran a new ground wire and I was back in business.

My rear wheels were not tracking when backing up and turning. Bad spring seats. They were so worn and beat up that I put on new seats, bearings, and spring U bolts. $500,,,,,,,,,That was back in Dec of 2003,

most torque specs are for dry threads. If you oil them reduce the torque by 10%. If you use anti-seize reduce the torque by 30%. Sounds like a large reduction but on smaller bolts there is a chance of twisting them off. I use anti-seize on my truck, I have had them on and off many times and...

On my engine, to retorque after running the engine involved pulling some injector lines and removing the rocker arm shaft. too much work. I had an engine block heater on my engine so before putting the anti freeze back in I heated it up on my two burner colman stove. Once I had a few gallons...

Well...I hate these computers, by mistake you just got the pictures, here is the story. I bought my heater from Tractor Supply. I had to make a simple sheet metal bracket to mount it to the frame. I hooked up the inlet hose to an existing threaded hole in the engine block and the hot water...

This bearing has 12 balls and is rated at a Static load of 24000 N and a dynamic load of 40500 N (what ever that means?) I have drove it very little in the last 6 months (250miles) because of my wife's health problems but in the next couple of weeks she is going to have a repair job and then I...

I solved the trans input shaft leakage problem by putting in a different bearing. It has double seals and is prepacked with grease, it dosen't need tranny oil for lubricatilon. Its rated for 5300 rpms and up to 120 degrees C (about 250 degrees F) operating temp. Its an NTN bearing #6308LLUNRC3

What I do is jack up the back of the truck utill the drive line is paralled with the ground. (about 6 inches on the rear axle) If you are using a trans. jack or a chainfall it slides in much easier.

One of the Forum rules is "Do not post unfriendly or insulting comments or replies to other members." I'm surprised the moderators let it go this far. If you don't like a posting...ignore it. I have seen some postings which I thought were really unnecessary and guess what???? nobody answered...

Thank you to all the guys who suggested my problem may have been bad seals. It got me thinking and sure enough there are today better seals than what was designed for the M35 back in the 1960s. I installed what you might call a premium seal and the truck hasen't leaked a drop. I'm on the road...

SKF 49927 There is much information on it on the SKF web site. A standard Nitrile seal is good for a temp of 250 degrees, the seal temp will run 30 degrees hotter then the engine temp because of friction. If your deuce is running 200 on a hot day, you are pushing the seal close to the max. The...

I got rid of the flame heater 18 years ago. I have the truck torn down again. I suspect bad seal. I am replacling it with a seal GM used on their 10.4 liter turbo diesels. It will withstand higher internal pressures plus will withstalnd twice the heat of a standard nitrile seal.

been there. On the last seal job I changed the oil and left it 2 qts. low just in case. No differances. I'm starting to think improper oil seal. Talking with the SKF people. Let you know when I hear from them. Robert

Thanks guys for all the imput. I guess I'll just keep driving it untill the clutch starts slipping. Oil is cheap, its just the mess that bothers me.