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That shape is similar to the 80's model Ford radius arm bushings... Might be able to make that work if needed. I don't know the dimensions of the bushings off hand, i'll have to dig in the garage to see if i still have one somewhere.

Yeah i tried to disassemble it on one of my first machines and it broke the barbed neck off so i stopped trying to do that. It was probably a weak one that had some corrosion or something, so I've been cutting the outer ferrule off instead. I'll try it again sometime.

Thanks, I’m an engineer and it drives me nuts seeing things intentionally made complicated, so I try to do things better, within reason. 😉

On the few machines i have been refurbishing, I just have been cutting the factory hoses crimped ends off (takes a little work to not tear them up) and using the barbed ends with Gates 4219XL, 1/4" fuel line from Orielly's Auto Parts. I also use the fuel injection clamps instead of the worm...

@kloppk has the replacement VR's that are great. I just added one to an 802 i'm refurbishing that fixed my issues.

Just a suggestion... See if there are any fabrication shops around you that would build you one. You should be able to have a steel or aluminum one built to your specs for a reasonable price. Wouldn't hurt to get a few quotes.

How long did you let it run? If you ran it for a while and it still was blowing black smoke, then you are getting too much fuel. Just thinking it could have been some of the old gunk left in the system causing incomplete combustion if you didn't let it run for a while to see if it cleared up.

They are rated for 15 gph, so it should be ok. I think the pump is rated at 25gph free flow. Seems to work good so far and has plenty of return flow to the tank. But i will keep an eye on it and can switch to the R20 series that's rated for 30gph if needed.

You can definitely clean it, replace the rod and go with it, but if it was me and i had one broken rod and that much sludge, i would assume any of the other components (rods, bearings,etc.) aren't far behind that one broken rod and either go full rebuild or find a replacement to swap in.

I just went out of my comfort zone of lots of filtration (and listening to @Guyfang about filters) on my 802a and just removed all the filters and replaced it with a single Racor water separating filter. I kept the 10 micron on it for the initial run after i went through everything, but have the...

Another option that may be worth it if you just need a load bank once or twice, is to rent one. Most rental places have them or can get you one to rent from them. They are available in many different configurations and wattage capabilities.

I use a Generlink meter base transfer switch connected to my 002a. The Generlink can handle up to 10kw continuous. It was the cheapest and easiest way to put a transfer switch on my house, plus i own it so it can be removed and taken to another house. I piped #6 from the generator to the meter...

Forgot to mention, @Dewie38 is also a pro with the 831's.

@kloppk is the 831 guru, he should be able to help you when he gets to see this post.

Guy, I forgot to reply to you the other day, but you mention its "not allowed"? i didn't see anywhere in the rules section that an excel spreadsheet wasn't allowed, unless I'm totally missing it, which wouldn't be the first time ;). Surely there is a way to create a dynamic document in a forum...

I wanted to try to elaborate on this flipping the angle a little more. I tried to find some pictures of when i made it but didn't have any, so i tried to draw on the best picture i had of it. I flipped it with the flat facing up and towards the gen, then used the rubber isolators to help dampen...

i just used the factory angle and flipped it.

i think they are 5/16" holes... But i tapped them for 3/8" bolts.

Ok i found the housing and can confirm they are 1/4 NPT.

I couldn't find an original 90 to check in my pile of fittings and couldnt recall where i put the original housings to try to measure them. i'll keep looking for the housings.