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Yep, and when combined with being a dick, the result came out very wrong. My sincerest apologies to everybody that lost sleep over this error of mine.

Nope, I'm not. Just went by the numbers in the GM literature, as you posted above, then did the math wrong.

Yeah, either that, or not taking everything all seriously all the time.

Yep, my bump stops are not only touching the frame, they're attached to it. Luckily there's space below the bump stops and the plate the U-bolts attach to, so the ride is okay. I knew I had something with space between the bump stop and frame. Different setup than on a K-series, though.

Then I'm screwed. Never had any space between the bump stop and frame, on any of my K-series.

On a K-20 with the 6.2, yes it was 1,400 lbs. per spring. The K-10 had a 3,600 lb. capacity in the front. Not sure what the military specified, but on a regular K-30 it was 2,250 lbs. per spring. That's three different rates, not counting the K-5, which may differ from the pickups. And again...

Man, are you going to make me dig up the correct info for the K-series springs? I don't really care what the aftermarket offers these days, as I thought we were discussing stock suspensions here. And no, it's definitely not uncommon for previous owners to have changed springs, which is why I...

Darn, that would mean that someone stole the third leafs off of my M1009s, and the 3/4-ton Suburban. Bought a '91 K-30 new, so thankfully that one still had its third leaf. But then there's an '85 3/4-ton Suburban, a project vehicle which I picked up new, and it was missing its third leaf, too.

WHAT?!? It's time you check the body builders books of the era, look up old road tests...or believe us.

Checked the front of the M1008, which is at 22.5 and 22.75 inches. It's a low mileage unit. For kicks, I also measured a 3/4-ton Suburban with a 6.2, which is at 22 and 21.75 inches. Neither one has a droopy front front clip, which would be very evident when looking at the reveal by the door...

It'd be a lot quicker and easier for everybody involved to use the method that LastFbody described above. Center of hub to top of wheel well is a fairly universal way of measuring ride height, doesn't require getting underneath the vehicle, and works regardless of tire size.

Jeez, glaser06, your Jeep is new compared to mine. Okay, at least 41 years newer. Wish you lived closer. I'd gladly balance tires in return for getting to use your blast cabinet and powder coating stuff. But I do have a mechanical handheld tachometer that my dad gave me. As far as the 2x4...

While it's not the case here (remember, the tires look good), the easiest way I've found to explain Hunter's Road Force variation system is to picture a piece of 2x4 attached to the tread. It wouldn't be a nice setup to drive down the road with, but with a regular balancer that 2x4 can be...

Well, shoot, if the tires look good, they can't possibly contribute to the problem. And I didn't realize that ball joints needed to be completely shot to cause any issues. But maybe you luck out, and paying attention the the rotors and shocks will eliminate the wobble when you're decelerating...

You are certainly entitled to your beliefs. In the real world, however, tires do not stay balanced all that long. And as I tried to get across above, there's balancing and then there's balancing. For example, when getting tires and wheels as a package from Tire Rack, they come balanced on a...

Thought more about this last night, and you may have gained caster due to the springs effectively being shorter with the negative arch - if they are unusually saggy, which they don't appear to be. Either way, too much caster also leads to death wobble, with seven degrees being about the limit...

Never heard of springs being responsible for a death wobble. Nor do I understand how they could be, but that doesn't mean they couldn't. Somehow. At least it'd be as likely as that worn wiper blades would cause it, I think. Unless...if your rear springs are unusually tall, then when combined...