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I'm not trying to save any money at all :D just read a how to bypass the FDC and it said to use DOT 3/8" air line. If that's not a good choice I am all ears, as I was going to mcmaster carrs fuel line section before I read that.

Thanks, will dig into this tomorrow. Can I use the same dot 3/8 air line for whatever is inside this assembly?

I will need to re seal that circular piece correct?

About 53F out currently. I havent tried cranking with pedal all the way down, is that the standard procedure?

Is this the assembly I need to remove to get to the carrier ?

If it helps, I can hear the pump running. Let me go pull the carrier out and see if it as simple as old fuel line.

Loosing prime sounds accurate, hot restart is instant. I am about to do the FDC bypass and may as well replace all old fuel line while in there. I ordered up DOT 3/8" and new ferule, sleeves, npt plugs etc. Is all the fuel line the same size?

Good point, will check that too.

It's weird: Ignition on : buzz and no squeal. Crank and start: horrible squeal. Ignition off: squeal goes away. I will pull the pump carrier and check it. So it's not likely a bad IP?

Yes indeed it is the dump aka Tonk. With ignition on, I can feel the in tank pump running (side note, once started there is a horrible squeal until i turn the ignition back to the off position). The hose from the pump: To inspect this I need to drain the tank or is it simply the external hose...

Truck was sitting 2 years before I got it. Once running it idles and pulls well, but it takes 2 to 3 fifteen second cranks to start each time. Batteries are fresh, I cant see any leaking from the IP. What would cause it to require that much cranking to start up? I plan to replace the FDC this...