The relay K12 is the second from the left --
If you open the control panel you'll see a string of 6 relays. The K12 relay is the second from the left. Be sure the unit is turned OFF before removing the relay and that it is OFF when replacing the relay..
Diodes will all be CR, followed by a number which identifies it in the schematic. Usually the diode will have a stripe on one side identifying the polarity of the diode. It should have a diagram that has an arrow pointing to a line on it as well.
CR5 is the diode that is shunted across the E2 pump.
Hey Thanks again.
Jeez I spent an hour unscrewing ALLOT of rusted small bolts with rusted nuts on the backside of bulkheads and in places I've never dreamed I'd have to jam my hand.
I also pulled the panel in the back where the fuel pump is at the tank.
Think I did finally find and you confirmed the K12 relay was the one I mentioned was moving when the master switch was turned to start position.
I did the tests you mentioned except for the CR5; have not found it yet?
The CB1 always popped with the relay either installed or taken out. I did find a diode on a terminal strip behind the malfunction panel in another compartment behind the control box compartment.
You can see the location of the diode in the picture. I did pull the diode thinking it might be the CR5 and CB1 still popped. I tested the diode both leads and appears to be good.
NOW the fuel pumps are not running
; tested leads no voltage and tested pumps - they work.
http://i58.tinypic.com/e63e9u.jpg
Picture taken of control box and compartment behind it. The terminal strip has a diode on it; Is it the CR5?
http://i57.tinypic.com/2hnb0r5.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/zlw6d.jpg
Picture of control box from the top showing the relays and the one you mentioned "K12" is the second one from the left.
Upper left corner is that infamous CB1 breaker and the Fuse which is okay. Bottom middle yo can see the edge of the new master switch that was installed.
I looked at the # 3 circuit again and saw it also went to the exciter on the alt. I disconnected that just to see and turned the master switch to r/p no CB1 popping - yaa; Tried to start when turned to the start position; motor just grunted and CB1 popped???
Now it sill pops with he exciter disconnected and no more action when trying to start, just the relay in the rear compartment - silver one metal case; so I reconnected the exciter wire..
If that diode wasn't CR5 I still will have to find it and if it was then I am thinking either some one hooked something to direct ground and a dead short and an "accidental" short some where from worn what ever?
P.S. My phone takes great pictures; no it isn't an iphone...