1009 making oil time to swap out engine

[ranchhopper]

I have a 1009 with an engine losing coolant and seems to be getting into the crankcase. The engine has a lot of blowby which could be caused by the coolant leaking into the crankcase I drained the excess oil out while it was warm and it had a lot of steam coming off it as well. The oil has a weird smell to it and no milkshake look to it which is strange most coolant in oil produces a real mess not the case here. I have a 305 block and heads that were completely redone at a machine shop years ago and its been sitting in the garage for years. The 6.2 needs an injector pump it weeps diesel out the front I think for the money I can finish putting together the 305 and put it into the truck for way less time and cash than fixing up the old 6.2. I will have a brand new engine instead of a patched together 6.2 what would guys here do I'm interested in hearing you opinions. I think the torque converter and governer would need to be swapped out in the transmission and I may be able to use the power steering pump from the 6.2 to run the hydroboost. I may not even need the hydroboost with the gas engine unless the 1009 has JB8 brakes but I doubt their that heavy duty on a blazer.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I think it would be much easier to find a gasser hydro PS pump bracket then to switch back to vac brakes.

 

[ranchhopper]

I think so too I don't know if vacuum brakes would work on the 1009 anyways I never paid much attention to the brake cylinder size when working on them.

I think it would be much easier to find a gasser hydro PS pump bracket then to switch back to vac brakes.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Vac brakes would most certainly work. Gasser K5 blazers had vac stuff. I think all 80s GM 1 tons had hydroboost so the bracket you need is likely plentiful.

 

[ranchhopper]

I'm going to start looking for one but old chevy stuff is getting scarce in junkyards here I never thought that day would come.

 

[cucvrus]

Blow by. Like when you remove the oil cap at idle?

 

[ranchhopper]

Yes white in color and seems very corrosive there is a lot of rust on the timing gears and inside the oil fill tube.

Blow by. Like when you remove the oil cap at idle?

 

[cucvrus]

I would say it needs a set of head gaskets and the heads checked out at a machine shop. Not the end of the world. You will miss the efficiency of the diesel in comparison to the gasoline engine. Do as you wish. Once you change the engine you have devalued the CUCV to the point that it is worth much less. Have you seen what people are paying on government auctions for non running CUCV's? Crazy. Do as you wish. I would fix what you have for less then 1/2 the money. And have something that retains it's value. That's me. It your vehicle. Have a great day.

Oh yes. I wanted to say. The blow by at idle. Perfectly normal. Increase the RPM's it goes away. Magic.

 

[ranchhopper]

I would prefer to stay with the diesel I thought bad head gaskets produced white exhaust and overheating and I'm puzzled by the crankcase not having frothy oil.

 

[cucvrus]

It could be a blown/corroded head gasket right near the compression seal. It does not have to leak water into the oil. I have changed a few just to change them and found bad/corroded head gaskets at the compression seal. But I would take a look anyway. If you are taking the engine out pull the heads and look.

 

[Chief_919]

You can retain the existing hydroboost setup and run it off the PS pump on the 305.

Is there any oil in your coolant?

 

[cucvrus]

Neither has to happen. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. On a damp day you will see it is burning coolant thru the compression seal of the head gasket. When you take the head off that cylinder will be shiny clean. I have had it happen to 2 CUCV's. It just slowly got worse. So I changed the heads and gaskets before it destroyed the engine. Good Luck.

 

[ranchhopper]

I have to swap out the IP so doing head gaskets would be easier with the top of the engine already off anyways.