12V Emergency lights on 24V system?

[DUG]

I made my bracket and used dodge alt.

I like GM, have no welder and wanna help the economy by shipping George some cash he can spend it on stippers who will use the money to feed their kids.

 

[DUG]

Does the "bracket" allow me to simply add a 12 alternator to the current system with no modification to the duel belt set up? Can I just run a simple 12V alternator off one of the two belts now in use? That seems to be a pretty good idea.

I think a converter would be a good idea too but to amp output (20A?) would be far less then a 12V alternator and separate battery.

With TM America's brackets you can just add a 12 volt alt to your current system. Or you can just chuck the stock deuce alt for a modern unit. Or you can do both.

Last I heard it was 75 each set plus shipping, but if you bought both sets he shipped free. Check with him cuz that might have changed.

 

[Lax]

Sounds like that is the way to go. Just get a bracket, add a 12V alternator, a separate new battery and wire all the accessories I want from the additional new 12V system.

Now the really dumb question. How do I get a hold of George? Thanks everyone!

 

[DUG]

Sounds like that is the way to go. Just get a bracket, add a 12V alternator, a separate new battery and wire all the accessories I want from the additional new 12V system.

Now the really dumb question. How do I get a hold of George? Thanks everyone!

He should have a couple ads in the classifieds. Search "alt".

If not search for posts by TM America.

Mention to him DUG wants a cut.

LOL

 

[Lax]

I will demand that you get your full sales commission!!! He did not hire you as his Sales Manager for nothing!

 

[shovelheadmike]

I am hoping to mount a Federal Signal mini light bar with three emergency lights on my cab (two red, one center clear) and a siren with one (1) 100 watt speaker mounted on the grill of my 71 AM General Deuce. The lights and sound system are 12 V and I checked with Federal Signal today and found out the light bar will draw between 15 and 20 amps. No idea about the siren but I would think not a great deal and only for short periods.

My question is how do I get the necessary 12 V to the lights and siren as cheaply, efficiently and easily as possible?

Let the arguing begin!!

If you will search a few of my other posts on this type of thing, it will clarify your issue very well. Basically, put the two lights that are the same in series with one another. The odd light will need to have the proper voltage dropping resistor installed in series with it as will the siren. For specific help, please private message me or send me an email. I will walk you through the steps to do it in the cheepest and most reliable method. No need to buy those expensive voltage converters. Resistors are very, very cheep.

 

[SEAFIRE]

I am hoping to mount a Federal Signal mini light bar with three emergency lights on my cab (two red, one center clear) and a siren with one (1) 100 watt speaker mounted on the grill of my 71 AM General Deuce. The lights and sound system are 12 V and I checked with Federal Signal today and found out the light bar will draw between 15 and 20 amps. No idea about the siren but I would think not a great deal and only for short periods.

My question is how do I get the necessary 12 V to the lights and siren as cheaply, efficiently and easily as possible?

Let the arguing begin!!

This has been an issue with us since we started using Deuces as brush fire trucks 20 years ago.

I've seen three basic systems used around here on deuces and 5-ton brush fire trucks, here is my 2 cents on three different ways of getting 12V to your emergency equipment:

Separate 12V system
Pro - does not use 24v system at all
Con - extra moving parts / belt(s) to break

24V to 12V converter
Pro - no extra alternator, etc.
Con - Converter big enough to run all your lights / siren / radio(s) can be expensive, costly to replace if burns up or breaks.

Use 12V side of existing 24V system
Pro - easy, just hook up to 12V side of your two batteries
Con - unequal draw on batteries can lead to overcharging, decrease battery life greatly.

Again, these are my observations.

We are about to replace a strobe lightbar with a 12V LED lightbar on our M35W/W using a converter, LED has way less amp draw, I'll let ya'll know how it works out.

Also some of the lightbar makers make some 24V LED lightbars now, but I haven't seen one in use yet.

 

[tm america]

I like GM, have no welder and wanna help the economy by shipping George some cash he can spend it on stippers who will use the money to feed their kids.

i like this one dug...i call it goin to the dollar store....and it deffinately brings new meaning to STIMULATING the economy?

 

[jdknech]

i have a code3 mx7000 light bar on my deuce( 5 rotators, 6 spotlights, and 2 intersections, all with 100w bulbs) and i just run off 1 battery.. if i have them on for any length of time, i switch what battery i'm using(they connect with cheap jumper cable clamps) i have been running it like that for 2 years with no problems, and i have left it on for up to 7 hours at a time before... but i do like the idea of a standalone 12v system... and i'm thinking of going that way because i want to add strobes and more lights at eye level... and switching batterys every 30-45min gets old... just my

 

[jdknech]

some pics

 

[Lax]

jdknech,

That's good info. Thanks. I am PM-ing you about your tires. Thanks.