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12v plug addition in my m923

dawico

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Location
Lampasas,TX
Your best bet is to go with a 24v to 12v inverter hooked to both batteries. You can hook up to just one battery and get 12 volts but it is bad for the batteries and not recommended.
 

pmramsey

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VA
Good inverters cost big money. Go to the Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/PulseTech-Charge-Monitor-Distribution-735X650/dp/B00B3YNA4K

This will link you to the PulseTech Pulse Charge Monitor Distribution System 735X650 PCMDS used by the military. I have them on every truck I own. They are the real thing. It is the complete unit. High end solar panel, distribution box with 12-circuits, (4-12 volt and 8-24 volts) complete with 100amp wedge type fuses for each circuit and water tight plugs for each. The cables for attaching to the battery box and all wiring is included. There is a battery tester unit to use before startup. I usually mount the tester box on the side of the transmission shift next to my right knee. They are only $179.99. I just purchased two more in the last month for a computer challenged friend. This unit is also de-sulfates your batteries. Cheaper than many inverters and lots of extra value. Good Luck
 
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Baradium

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Location
Salcha, Alaska
I got one of the overhead consoles from Those Military Guys. It gave me a dome light, speaker for music (with an amp, it's good quality so goes plenty loud enough to hear clearly in the truck even through ear plugs), cigarette lighter plug as well as some circuit breaker protected 12v switches.

http://www.thosemilitaryguys.com/complete-hardtop-overhead/ The pictures in the listing are actually of the one in my truck, I took the pictures when I got it. I was very impressed with the construction.

It's a bit of money to just get a cigarette lighter plug, but the dome light and other functions of it make it well worth it in my mind. They have a soft top version as well.
 

pmramsey

Active member
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VA
Here is an update for anyone needing step down from 24 to 12 volt accessories.

This is only the control box for the larger system I mentioned earlier. It does not have the solar panel but includes all the other features of the system. It hooks up to the 24-volt system and gives one the option of adding 4 more 12-volt connections and 8 more 24-volt connections. Each circuit is fused and you can select the amp for each circuit. The wedge fuses are included with the unit. No expensive converter needed. The price is very right at $29.95. This is NOT junk. Very well made.
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
312
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Uh oh. You posted an eBay link. There goes your feedback score. A few minutes from now, you'll be toasted by the authorities, unless you can quickly remove it before they find it (doubt it).

Easiest way is to alligator clip a cigarette lighter outlet to one battery. They make them. I used one to drive my 9 home from state to state with GPS.

This link probably belongs in the mod section anyway...
 
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doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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The link has been removed.

Nobody was toasted.

Pm links to ebay ads.
 

SUPERSPORT

Member
107
2
18
Location
Ohio
Good inverters cost big money. Go to the Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/PulseTech-Charge-Monitor-Distribution-735X650/dp/B00B3YNA4K

This will link you to the PulseTech Pulse Charge Monitor Distribution System 735X650 PCMDS used by the military. I have them on every truck I own. They are the real thing. It is the complete unit. High end solar panel, distribution box with 12-circuits, (4-12 volt and 8-24 volts) complete with 100amp wedge type fuses for each circuit and water tight plugs for each. The cables for attaching to the battery box and all wiring is included. There is a battery tester unit to use before startup. I usually mount the tester box on the side of the transmission shift next to my right knee. They are only $179.99. I just purchased two more in the last month for a computer challenged friend. This unit is also de-sulfates your batteries. Cheaper than many inverters and lots of extra value. Good Luck
You say this is what the military actually uses? My truck actually came with 2 of the solar panels on the cowl between the windshield and hood. Does that mean I have the above stuff already tucked away somewhere?
 

pmramsey

Active member
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Location
VA
Supersport,
Follow the wiring from the solar panels to where they terminate. If the system has not been cannibalized, you should see a gray waterproof junction box like the one pictured on the far right in the post immediately above yours. Usually the boxes are mounted near the batteries. The 939 series trucks have the box mounted under the passenger seat in the first compartment from the door. I mount them under the hood of our CUCVs on the wall between the two 6TL batteries.
 

SUPERSPORT

Member
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2
18
Location
Ohio
Supersport,
Follow the wiring from the solar panels to where they terminate. If the system has not been cannibalized, you should see a gray waterproof junction box like the one pictured on the far right in the post immediately above yours. Usually the boxes are mounted near the batteries. The 939 series trucks have the box mounted under the passenger seat in the first compartment from the door. I mount them under the hood of our CUCVs on the wall between the two 6TL batteries.
I'm gonna go look around tomorrow. If I find that box I can pull a nice clean 12 volts for what-ever? Is there an on-line manual for this thing?
 

wheelspinner

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North Carolina - FINALLY !
If you have the two smaller panels, look for black and red paired wires going to the batteries. The smaller panels like you describe are 12V panels, used one on each pair of batteries. You will not have the gray distribution box if you have that set up. As far as pulling 12v for a lighter adapter, just tap off where the truck already does for the heater, put a fuse in line and go. The draw on this type of small electronic equipment is so small it will be invisible to the truck.
 

SUPERSPORT

Member
107
2
18
Location
Ohio
If you have the two smaller panels, look for black and red paired wires going to the batteries. The smaller panels like you describe are 12V panels, used one on each pair of batteries. You will not have the gray distribution box if you have that set up. As far as pulling 12v for a lighter adapter, just tap off where the truck already does for the heater, put a fuse in line and go. The draw on this type of small electronic equipment is so small it will be invisible to the truck.
Yea, after I posted I was looking around on-line for a manual. I came across the Solargizer and I do remember seeing one of those boxes in the battery compartment. I'm sure that is what I have now, was just excited thinking I may already have the other one. As long as my batteries are being desulfated I'm good.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I did not read each reply but I do believe your LOW Fan wire on
the heater blower is 12V. Look at your batteries, see that smaller
wire? That I believe is the 12V feed. You could run another small wire
from there too for your 12V stuff, and so long as you have a fuse your good,
connect ground to the body.

(NOTE: I rarely see people talk of the battery wire and grounding issues w/ some
5 Tons. It's a big deal in my book, I was told about it, I took the time
to investigate and MY TRUCK "had" problems!
Read HERE starting about 1/2 way down. )
 

pmramsey

Active member
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191
43
Location
VA
SuperSport...if you cannot locate a manual, the important thing to know is that output cables 1 through 8 are 24-volt and output cables 17 through 20 are 12-volt. The large wedge fuses are available most places. Setting the individual amp of each circuit will be readily apparent when you actually get into the junction box. You might even want a set of xenon lights mounted on the cab roof or whatever. I put 29 hours on my A3 in the snow this week. The batteries are dated 1993. Startups have been below 5 F most mornings. This is the value of these units. I've owned this truck since 2009 and I have run it over 23,000 miles. New tires, new tarp, new Warn winch, rotating beacons, rear strobes, an artic cargo area heater, and a fuel pump solenoid have been my investments. The electrical add-ons have been made safely, securely, maintenance and hassle free due to the Pulse Tech equipment.
 

Bobthebuilder

New member
31
0
0
Location
Huntsville, AL
Has anyone wire up one of the PulseTech distribution units?? I see it has both 12v and 24 volt positive leads to connect to the battery. This thing does not appear to step down the voltage but rather just give you a way to connect multiple items with fuses. The only way I could get 12v was to connect the 12v lead to one battery. I could have done this without the PulseTech. Are you supposed to connect the leads to both batteries? I'm assuming this isn't good for the battery either. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong! Any advice from someone who has done this would be wonderful.
 

pmramsey

Active member
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191
43
Location
VA
You must not have the installation instructions. PM me with your address and I will send you a hard copy via snail mail. If this were a CUCV installation, you would run the risk of drawing down one of the 12-volt batteries as they are each charged by its own 12-volt alternator. If this is for a Humvee, Deuce, or 5-ton systems that have only one 24-volt alternator charging two or more the batteries, hooking up the PulseTech unit does not "drain" any single one of the batteries. This unit also frequently de-sulfates the battery pack.
 

Bobthebuilder

New member
31
0
0
Location
Huntsville, AL
No sir, no instructions! Good ole eBay purchase! It's going on a hmmwv. I'll pm you my mailing address. Thank you! I'm only using it to power a 12v stereo I built. I picked up a smaller 24v to 12v step down converter to use instead. I had to have a radio in that thing! image.jpg
 
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