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15.5's wow what a difference W/10" rim build

rizzo

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houdel said:
Rizzo - I'm not sure I read this thread correctly. Did you say you are running 15.5/80 R20 tires on stock 7" wide M35 rims? Or are you using M135 rims to move the tire sidewall out to give more clearance for the drag link? Did you have a b**ch of a time getting those 15.5/80 R20 tires on a 7" wide rim?
I took a stock deuce rivited rim and flipped the center on it. that puts it almost in the center of the wheel.

then mounted the tires with smaller tubes and mounted on the front.


on the back I removed both wheels and mounted the new tires on one of them then bolted it on the truck dished out.

the front and back wheels line up perfect.
 

OPCOM

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Mucekok,

I saw the wheels on your truck, did not find that model shown on the usa6x6 site, but I assume they know what to deliver. There's been + and - comments about them on this site, looke like you got what you wanted. It looks like a pain to install all those bolts though. Is there a torque spec to be observed and can a power tool be used to achieve this? I have to admit I prefer the stock-ish appearance of the modified deuce rims. Does usa6x6 modify wheels or just make the ones they sell?
 

mucekok

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i must say that assembling the wheels is a pain to say the least. after starting all 36 of the bolts and locknuts by hand i just used an impact to tighten them. each setup took about 30 mins. to assemble after i learned what i was doing. i would rather work with these than fight a split rim and a tube. i do have problems with air leaks on the burban, but its from runningg 2-3 psi and folding the tires under on whatever...gets dirt in the beads, then is a leakfest. i agree, and do like the look of the modified wheel, but am entirely too lazy to do all that work...
 

Recovry4x4

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Turned out nice Rizzo. The fronts are just riveted wheels with the center reversed?
 

sermis

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I like the 10" rims I made. If I were to do it again I would find riveted rims for the outside 3" so I would not have to cut the dish out, just cut the rivets and remove the dish. If I had access to a large lathe I would use the lathe to remove the welded dish and it would be ok, balance wise.
If I did not have extra rims and had something to compress the tire I would just mount on a stock rim and go.
After driving it more with the lock out on the front axel I am starting to like it more and more. A lot less wheel spin than with the lock out on the rear axel.
 

OPCOM

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I think cost-wise, the made rims you came out ahead. Some buddy of mine tells me you can pay to have this done for maybe $50/wheel if you supply the materials. You guys with the torches etc are in good shape.
 

sermis

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Cost wise I am way ahead. At $200+ for custom rims, $1,200+. I might have $5 each for gas and rods and at max 1 hour labor after the first one. Add in tube and flap cost and is still les than $50.00 per wheel.
At a warp speed on the road of 50 MPH I can’t see custom unless you really have the money to toss away.
 

sermis

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If you have a jig to compress the tire the stock rim is the way to go off road. I can see come crown on your tries RIZZO, not too bad but I think the centers of the tire would wear if on road. With the thickness of these tires it might not matter if the center was bald. If most of you driving is on road, I would widen the rims.
 

rizzo

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sermis, I was looking at that when taking the pics. I didn't have a straight edge. My M810 with the hemmt rims and 1600's were right next to the M35 so I looked at those and saw about the same amount of crown. Those are the right rims for those tires too. I think the only way to do it is take a straight edge up next time I go and take more pics.
Can you do the same with your tires so that we can compare?

note: I have 35#'s in the m35 and 90ish in the M810. That might expalin it.
 

sermis

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OK I worked on the riveted rim today. I added the 3” to the inside of the rim a while back. I went on a 250 mile trip the other day to help Barrman recover his M35 gasser. I was doing about 60 with the throttle set when the front right went flat. The tube I used split under the tread. Not something I want to repeat. Standing up with both hands on the wheel trying to keep the truck on the road. Was finally able to get the throttle pushed in and stopped. I did not have a spare so I went to work. The wheel cylinder was leaking and bearings need packed so I pulled it down. Bearings were bad and have been replaced. I punched out the rivets and flipped the dish. It was a pita to get the dish right. After flipping the dish I found out that the rivet holes did not line up. I put it on a flat surface and measured, pounded, measured, pounded, measured, pounded. I think it is close but have not run it yet. PIC’s coming.
For those who have flipped the centers, what did you do to get them lined up?
 

OPCOM

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Not to deviate from topic, but driving with the "cruise control" on is probably the scariest possible idea. I'm glad you and your truck survived to tell the story and set this as an example of what can go wrong. In any case, please post them pics!
 

houdel

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Sermis, do you have a certified death wish on file with any legal municipality? Your posts are be beginning to really SCARE me!
 

sermis

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Sometimes what sounds like a good idea at the time might not be later. At least as I have gotten older, maybe not wiser, it's not here hold my beer and watch this. Well sometimes, just not on the road.......
 

gringeltaube

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sermis said:
... For those who have flipped the centers, what did you do to get them lined up?
Rivets are not perfectly aligned and distance between them varies to much to ever line up again after flipping the center section. If I ever had to do that I would just mount both parts pre-assembled, on a free spinning hub, check radial and lateral run-out with a dial indicator, MIG- weld both parts together and also fill up the old rivet holes.

Gerhard
 
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