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15.5's wow what a difference W/10" rim build

OPCOM

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sermis said:
The main thing I noticed is loss of power. I have a boarding ladder that I use to work under the hood.
Can you say what your speed and max RPM is in 4th and 5th?
 

sermis

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RPM will reach 2400-2500 in 4th and 5th but it takes some time to get there. As long as you are on a flat road it will do ok. Any grade it will loose power. A very long grade and you will start dropping gears. I pulled Barrmans gasser on a trailer the other day and could never get out of 4th. Speed wise the truck gained about 10% or a little better with the 15.5's. This was checked with GPS and varified in total milage.
 

Blythewoodjoe

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I decided to test the balance of my wheel today so I pulled the truck up against a tree and jacked up the right rear tire and sat it on some wooden blocks. Cranked the truck and got it up to about 27 mph. That should have turned the wheel at about 54 mph. It didn't have much shimmy, but my butt wouldn't let me push it any faster. It occurred to me later I had the transfer case in low range. I will try to get it up to a few more mph later this week. Question is, do I want to video the spinning wheel and post it on youtube to see if any of you have any thoughts on the shaking or lack there of?

Joe Trapp
 

Katch1

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Had a quote from Wold wheel to put a 6 hole budd center in a tubeless terra rim, $570!! I thought being a local company, and they have built this before they would be much more reasonable than that. :shock: :cookoo:
If I go this route, I'll probobly have to do it myself, or win the lotto.
 

OSO

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Great job on those rims ,the thought process you invested ,and the work ! Nice seeing the pic for the process, real eye opener! [thumbzup]
 

Blythewoodjoe

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Status Report:

I put the 1300/1400R20 tube I got from Rusty in the 14.5 tire tonight and it was a decent fit. It touched the circumference of the tire well but did have a little slack with the side walls. Still not too much. I put 12" flaps in too. I felt much better about these. Plenty of over lap. Filled the tire up a little and it looks good.

I took a few pictures of the wheel as I fabbed it up and thought I would post them. You can see the over lapping of the two rims.

Joe Trapp

PS. Holy crap, the pictures are backwards. I'll get it right next time.
 

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rdixiemiller

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gringeltaube said:
sermis said:
... For those who have flipped the centers, what did you do to get them lined up?
Rivets are not perfectly aligned and distance between them varies to much to ever line up again after flipping the center section.

Gerhard
The way riveted wheels were built is as follows.
1) Dish without holes is set in rim without holes and tack welded in place.
2) Holes are punched through rim and center on a large punch press.
3) Rivets are put through holes and cold squeezed in another press.

That is why the holes do not necessarily line up perfectly when the dish is flipped over. The work was done with indexing tooling on the press, but it was not necessarily exact.
Most wheels have been welded construction for the last 30 years or so.
 

spicergear

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Were there any issues with centering the Dayton part on the deuce can? Was it a snug fit or what? I see the overlap but just wondering about the fit. The finish, by the way, is real nice-
 

Blythewoodjoe

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I ground down the ring on the stock wheel as evenly as I could and made the fit fairly tight. Once I placed the Dayton wheel section over the stock wheel I made sure it was elevated properly by measuring from the lip on the stock wheel next to where I ground it down instead of the very inside where the tire would seat. Seamed more accurate that way. I also measured from the edge where the hub rest to the inside of the Dayton wheel and drove a screwdriver in between the rims to adjust that.

I'll take some pictures on the next one. My years as a pipe fitter really helped with this. After all it's just a 20" pipe and flange.
Joe Trapp
 

m-35tom

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i made my wheels the same way joe did, but i used m-135 wheels since they have a 1" different offset. (see m-621 project) it is my experience that stock tires and wheels need to be 16 oz or more out of balance to need balanceing, i.e. if it is less than 16 oz out you will not notice it.
 

sermis

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I had a couple at 32 -34 ounces out. I balanced the rims before putting the tires on. Might try with out balancing the wheels and just mount the tires and then see. If they were not on the front I would not wory but don't want to kill the ball joints.
 

sermis

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I sold off my first set of rims and 15.5's. I made a second set of rims the same was as the first set but did not balance the rims like before. I did take the rims to a buddy that has a large lathe to cut the centers out of them. I have Goodyear 395’s on the front and Michelin 395’s on the rear. I was really happy with them. At high speed I can feel a little out of balance but not very much. I don’t think it is enough to worry about. I think some of the balance issue before was the fact I did not have the centers evenly cut out evenly and I had balanced the rims before mounting the tires. With the heavy liners in the tires I think they counter balance the valve stem cut some to even out everything. I never realized how out of round / wobble the stock rims are. With them in the lathe you can see as much as ¼ out of round and wobble.
 
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