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1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

Kaiser67M715

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NH
Just quick update got front frame line in, made up 3 of the short axle lines, reused the rock spring guards uploadfromtaptalk1436752207886.jpg
Gave them a coat of green, got a good number of New clamps,

Also working on replacing the wire for the spare tire, got one more clamp on the rear frame line I can't reach
 

Kaiser67M715

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All lines in, letting it gravity bleed, will fully bleed tomorrow.

Do Need to figure out something for the master cylinder cap, no source for the copper gasket I can find, will try to find an o-ring at some point
 

m1010plowboy

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The gas of a gasser

All lines in, letting it gravity bleed, will fully bleed tomorrow.

Do Need to figure out something for the master cylinder cap, no source for the copper gasket I can find, will try to find an o-ring at some point
Does your MC bolt look anything like the early deuce MC bolt? There's nothing like a gasser so I'm hoping you get this on the road so we can hear it. Give up a picture of your MC and lets find you a cap!

P7161216.jpgP7161215.jpg
 

Kaiser67M715

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Sorry, wasn't real clear in my post, the copper gasket is leaking, because of the remote reservoir install I did.

The cap looks just like all the other ones for the later multi-fuels. The copper gasket is about an 1-1/4" id 1-1/2 od
I tried all the local stores, saw a post here that some plastic sealing rings for sinks may work? So will search that out maybe, I found it odd that nobody even list a washer on any of the surplus sites
 

Kaiser67M715

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Here's a picture of the cap(I have two, one from the master originally in it, and the new one I installed)
uploadfromtaptalk1437131474193.jpg

I'm gonna see if I can get an o-ring, and/or find one of them plastic washers
 

cattlerepairman

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Here's a picture of the cap(I have two, one from the master originally in it, and the new one I installed)
View attachment 570669

I'm gonna see if I can get an o-ring, and/or find one of them plastic washers
The flat plastic washer from the plumbing isle, intended to fit sink traps etc. is a perfect fit. Bring your cap; I think it is the 1 1/4 inch diameter.
 

Kaiser67M715

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well couldn't find the plastic washer, well every size but the one that fit. Almost same thing with an O-ring, but got one that fit decent, installed it, seems to be doing fine, bled the brakes, didn't seem to seep any

I will do a final brake inspection tomorrow, make sure everything is up to par; no leaks anywhere

final things to do are-muffler(find a suitable/temporary one if needed for now) adjust parking brake-not fun have been putting it off, got an 1-1/2" thread left to go, only got maybe an inch on so far in 45 minutes, put a ground on one of the front headlights, license plate light. and I think that should be good enough to get me through inspection, and on the road to the Weare rally
 

Kaiser67M715

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I'll get pics and videos tomorrow, will be pulling her out of the garage. Fired her up again since...well I guess early April was the last time. slight flutter, but could be bad gas-didn't smell great.

I do have to fix the rear turn-signals, they are reversed, so will pull the plug on the switch and swap wires, other then that lights seem to work fine, have to get a light for rear license plate hooked up(have a bulb and housing-should have a y connector so that will work.

temporarily used a 15 amp Packard circuit breaker for the horn, hopefully I can find the correct Douglas style breaker at Weare.

some minor things to be addressed after Weare - fuel gauge-not enough wiring, using the ground on the air gauge, will eventually convert to a mechanical air gauge to fix this. and some other things I just conveniently spaced on...oh yeah ground for blackout lamp, better ground for headlights, they work but are dimmer then I would like, I think grounding to the frame would be better then the fenders as they are currently.

oh and no air buzzer and light, didn't see a way to diagnose that in the manuals. Ideas?
 

Kaiser67M715

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uploadfromtaptalk1437346785214.jpg

Some pictures, will post videos in a bit, something wrong with fuel or spark, only thing not new is wires
 
Last edited:

Kaiser67M715

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Video I put together, first part is before the Ignition tuneup, was a whole lot worse then the first-first startup. lots of misfire. second half is about 10 minutes after driving it around, I forgot to turn on the dash cam. I drove it initially, but it started giving me problems...plus I haven't driven too many standards, so fifty/fifty experience and actual problems, my dad is driving it in the video, giving me some pointers.

https://youtu.be/3pHDoynmtPA

but doing some research. looks like my wires may be the culprit, I did throw the Old coil back in, but it misfired a whole lit worse, had NO power. at least with the new coil you could move it a bit. gonna try just civilian plugs and wires, if that solves 90% of the issues I'll get a whole tune up kit again, with wires, should last a while with the amount of time I plan to put on it

hopefully it will be up and running for the trip to Weare, would hate to let it sit at home
 

USMC 00-08

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Have you looked for small cracks or burn marks in your distributor cap? My M135 acted like that and turns out it was the distributor cap. The crack was so small I could barely see it, but it was enough to cause me a lot of problem.
 

Kaiser67M715

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Doesn't appear to be cap, but new resistor might have burnt up-shorted out somehow, was piping hot. put old one in, never got hot, but the spark is pretty weak.

but I'll give a brief rundown of how things are going.

So tried again last night after it cooled down, no good, still misfired. So I went to the auto store, got plug wires, and NGK plugs, B6S I think. anyways before installing those, tried to start it...nothing, didn't even attempt to fire. So installed the new plugs and wires, tried starting-again nothing. even tried ether but spark seemed pretty weak, and then I touch the distributor, pretty warm near the resistor, pulled cover, couldn't touch resistor. so installed old one, couldn't see any frayed wires causing a short. old resistor didn't get as hot, but still wouldn't start, and still a weak spark.

might have fried the coil with the bad resistor. but does anyone know how to test all the components, the manual doesn't seem to be too helpful unless you have the correct military tools.

at a loss of where to look now

but thinking about it, it might be recurring, the engine ran fine initially, but as I ran it more, it started to misfire. and again after the new distributor components, ran fine for 10-15 minutes, then misfire galore.

could my input voltage be messing up the ignition? maybe the alternator is sending out too much voltage?

guess I am grasping at straws now.

anyways, at this point, it looks like I won't be able to drive it to Weare.
 

USMC 00-08

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Could you post a picture of the inside of the distributor? I am curious to see if it is the same as the M135. If so, I will compare it to what I have and we will see. If the same, my TM tells how to test everything. I had to go through that too. It was a condenser. (This was before the cap cracked.)
 

rustystud

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What is your voltage to the coil ? Also what is your coil rated for. Is it a 24 volt coil or a 12 volt coil or even a 6 volt coil ? If you have the wrong voltage coil installed this will give you trouble. Also check your condenser in the distributor.
 

Kaiser67M715

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Umm, can't get a good read on input voltage, gonna check grounds after work.

Coil is 24 volt, have installed all new components, so everything in the truck except resistor is new, got all the parts from White Owl. All the parts seem to be nos, not any new manufacture.

I've never run a truck with three condensors, plus I don't know how to check if they are good, which is giving me the biggest issue.
 

reom34

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Canary Islands- Spain
Hello from Tenerife-Canary Islands Spain.
Congratulations for your great work with your truck.
My M34 is OA331 Gasser engine too and we restored it we had a lot of problems with the tuneup but at he end the engine sound will be a good serenade.
Good luck
https://youtu.be/YdPRFb4ERnI My M34 in the first run. Sorry for my bad English
 

USMC 00-08

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Location
Skiatook, OK
I've never run a truck with three condensors, plus I don't know how to check if they are good, which is giving me the biggest issue.
When I get home this evening, I will look up in my TM how to test. There is a way but I don't remember the process without the manual. The test works.

I knew I had a condenser fail, replaced it with another one that was supposed to be good and still the same issue. That is when I tested by the book and found the replacement condenser was bad too. Once a good one was in, problem solved.
 

USMC 00-08

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Sorry for taking so long. My scanner is not wanting to work or I would just post up the pages you need.

Go to this link, open the TM and go to pages 155-157. This will tell you how to test the distributor. Page 222 shows how things are supposed to be hooked up in the distributor. Keep in mind this is for the M135 but the distributor may be similar or the same. I am just not sure though.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106483-More-M135-TM-s
 
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