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1986 Camp Shelby M1008 Restoration

bwilson7990

Member
54
0
6
Location
York, Pennsylvania
I see you have the slave connector on the front connected and routed back inside the truck. What are you using that for? I had thought about making loose jumper cables off the slave and hanging them inside the hood so they could be connected to one battery at a time. Then making a set of jumpers that plugged onto the slave that could be used to charge 12V car batts or whatever. I wanted to use it because I hate keeping things that are useless, but also want to preserve the originality of the truck rather than removing it.
 

rlltide12

Member
227
1
18
Location
Alabama
Installed a set of 39.5" IROKs and Mickey Thompson wheels the other day...





I was able to minimize fender trimming by using zero rates up front and pushing the front axle forward 1.5". Only had to clip the front edge of the front fenders.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
do you have cross over high steering,
I had mine moved forward that far but with cross over high steer, the tie rod hits the pitman arm, even with the short arm. just checking to see if you had same as me and how you handled it. with 6 inch lift it may be ok. I had 5 (4 inch with zero rate)

also, are the tires actually 39.5 tall and how wide. I have found many are smaller than what they say and I am looking for some 39's in the future to replace the ones I have since they are not made anymore but cannot find anything less than 12 inches wide. My tires are currently 39x11 and I am trying to find replacements if I ever wear mine out.

truck looks good, just digging for more info.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
looking at the picks, you don't have the high steer, I believe if you try to move your tie rod up you will experience the same problem I had. Just so you know, if you decide to add it, you will probably have to move the axle back. I think you can go about a half inch forward not 1.5

you got about 2 inches more lift than me, so you would be ok with the wider tires, with only 5 inches of lift the tops of my tires stuff into the top of the fender wells.

have you ever put the truck on a lift and let the front tires hang and rotate them to see if your front driveshaft binds.
you have to be close to the limits at this time, lifting the engine will probably create other changes for you.

I do like the bumper, very nice work.
 

rlltide12

Member
227
1
18
Location
Alabama
My driveshaft definitely binds. Its almost binding sitting still. Thats the next project. Not sure how im going to tackle it yet.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
you can clearance it just a little but not much before they fall apart. custom machined ones from tom woods cost a lot of money but you can get a couple more degrees when you need it. Your cheapest fix will be to clock the t-case down (which is different from a drop) for as much lift as you have.
Just from experience especially since you have a truck and not a blazer, the farther you push the t-case back the better off you are.

I highly recommend the fixed yoke rear output with cv joint.
 

rlltide12

Member
227
1
18
Location
Alabama
I built a slip yoke cv rear shaft using a ford F350 front shaft. Works outstanding. Im not sure what I want to do with the front, but I will figure it out.
 
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