HAMMERSCUCV
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Tons of work to ddo to get er running, excited at the new project! With my Boy!!
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1st CUCV, 1985 M1009 New to site and testing
- Thread starter HAMMERSCUCV
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BostonPatriot28
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I have a 85 M1009 as well good luck with it! if you need anything we are here to help
HAMMERSCUCV
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Thanks!! Tons of great reading on here. The previous owner bought it to set on 1 ton axles to convert to a rock crawler from his K5 gas burner but quickly became scared of the glow plugs and that so I get it as it still sites. Body in great shape and no rust. Color is horrible green, someone did a do it yourslef job after they bought from a local police dept, who had painted it smurf blue - well take it back to army green!
I'm new to diesel as well but I think I'm starting to get it.
The 'Hammer' has problems starting - previous owner replaced the 24v starter with brand new starter and replaced the start pushbutton. He had no idea about how to heat the glow plugs and during the starter and switch install somehwere along the line he lost much of the elctrical system, all running lights and most of the dash.
And the worst is since it wouldnt start he'd spray ether in the breather. YIKES.
So we chunked the ether!!! I dont think it damaged the motor yet, it runs beautifully, once its cranked.
We will start with grounds and try to get electrical back. Once we get that done then well attempt to crank using pre-lit lamp then pull. test and replace, as needed, glow plugs.
I'm also considering dropping in a elec fuel pump or maybe replace the mech fp.
I'm sure I'll need to consult the experts here but first I will trying to work through the 'sticky' sections, then a glow pull troubleshooting militray doc I found, then troubleshoot fuel sys. I have a feeling I may not make it through all that before seeking advise.
This is a project for my 16 yo (whose nickname is actually SledgeHammer) who want to learn mechanics, so I'm 'helping' push him towards diesel. He so excited he cant sleep at nite!
Proud pa here.
Sorry for extended thanks and beginning plan for Hammer's restore, but I'm a little excited and eager myself! Haha
I'm new to diesel as well but I think I'm starting to get it.
The 'Hammer' has problems starting - previous owner replaced the 24v starter with brand new starter and replaced the start pushbutton. He had no idea about how to heat the glow plugs and during the starter and switch install somehwere along the line he lost much of the elctrical system, all running lights and most of the dash.
And the worst is since it wouldnt start he'd spray ether in the breather. YIKES.
So we chunked the ether!!! I dont think it damaged the motor yet, it runs beautifully, once its cranked.
We will start with grounds and try to get electrical back. Once we get that done then well attempt to crank using pre-lit lamp then pull. test and replace, as needed, glow plugs.
I'm also considering dropping in a elec fuel pump or maybe replace the mech fp.
I'm sure I'll need to consult the experts here but first I will trying to work through the 'sticky' sections, then a glow pull troubleshooting militray doc I found, then troubleshoot fuel sys. I have a feeling I may not make it through all that before seeking advise.
This is a project for my 16 yo (whose nickname is actually SledgeHammer) who want to learn mechanics, so I'm 'helping' push him towards diesel. He so excited he cant sleep at nite!
Proud pa here. Sorry for extended thanks and beginning plan for Hammer's restore, but I'm a little excited and eager myself! Haha
Skinny
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Great vehicle to learn on for a young technician. Everything is simple and a good starting point to learn fuel, electrical systems. Whatever I takes to keep adolescents away from video games!
if he is into diesels, he will have plenty of work opportunity if he continues in the field. Whatever you do, don't watch any Wyotech or any other tech school commercials
if he is into diesels, he will have plenty of work opportunity if he continues in the field. Whatever you do, don't watch any Wyotech or any other tech school commercials
IdahoPlowboy
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Welcome to the group Hammer!
HAMMERSCUCV
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I think we fixed the ground problems and now a few other electric things work. But still the Wait lamp does not come on. So in case the lmap was bad we turned the key to On, waited 30 sec then turned to Start and hit the push button. The started and motor turned but it didn't start. So I'm thinking GP system or fuel but the previous onwer started it right up by spraying ether int he breather so I'm leaning towrds GP system. I found that the glow plug control module is absent (circuit board missing) but all wires are still intact so I dont think anyone bypasssed it. (not sure) and frankly am confused from the following post I found:
Bypassing the glowplug controller is something I wouldn't do as I have read too may threads about people holding their bypass button too long causing the glow plus to swell making them a nightmare to replace.
If you don't hold the plugs on for excessive amounts of time you wont have problems. With the 60G's you shouldn't have any problems either, and if you convert it over to the 12 volt system you really shouldn't have any problem.
Honestly most of the stories about swollen glow plugs involve stock glowplug systems and Wellmans or AC 13G's.
Case in point, I'm in the process of removing 7 swollen Wellman 070 glow plugs on my 1009, with a stock GP system right now (all 8 were swollen, only the 1 came out without any force).
Does it sounds like I need a new circuit board glow plug control module? Seems like w/o it the lamp nor GPs would work.
Bypassing the glowplug controller is something I wouldn't do as I have read too may threads about people holding their bypass button too long causing the glow plus to swell making them a nightmare to replace.
If you don't hold the plugs on for excessive amounts of time you wont have problems. With the 60G's you shouldn't have any problems either, and if you convert it over to the 12 volt system you really shouldn't have any problem.
Honestly most of the stories about swollen glow plugs involve stock glowplug systems and Wellmans or AC 13G's.
Case in point, I'm in the process of removing 7 swollen Wellman 070 glow plugs on my 1009, with a stock GP system right now (all 8 were swollen, only the 1 came out without any force).
Does it sounds like I need a new circuit board glow plug control module? Seems like w/o it the lamp nor GPs would work.
M1009 NEWBEE 2013
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If you bi-pass the card and splice in a push button, you should be fine as long as you don't lean on the button too long. Some guys use them 100% of the time and have no cards. If you do not have AC60 glow plugs don't lean on the button too long. The button will be a good temp solution until you get things figured out.
You need to push the button, at the half key-turn position, (push button right after half turn) for 20 or so seconds, then turn the key to start. The button should be pushed while the wait light is on, or during that period, if the bulb is not functioning or you have no wait light.
You need to push the button, at the half key-turn position, (push button right after half turn) for 20 or so seconds, then turn the key to start. The button should be pushed while the wait light is on, or during that period, if the bulb is not functioning or you have no wait light.
HAMMERSCUCV
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Okay, thanks NewBee! We may just add a bypass push button. I did find the part (#1249607
for $91 but whatever led to the previous owner to remove the card may happen again, may not... so I'm leary to simply buy and install it.
Any recommendations on which button to buy? Would a simple switch work or does it need to be an actual button?
Also, are the AC60 glow plugs The best option when and if we need to replace the gps?
for $91 but whatever led to the previous owner to remove the card may happen again, may not... so I'm leary to simply buy and install it. Any recommendations on which button to buy? Would a simple switch work or does it need to be an actual button?
Also, are the AC60 glow plugs The best option when and if we need to replace the gps?
M1009 NEWBEE 2013
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I bought my switch from Napa, its a Moment "On" Switch. I got a heavy duty one for $35 bucks. I would get a push button, so it is not accidently hit or left on. I have a card and simply spliced the wires and installed it for emergencies, if my card would happen to fail. But I do test it from time to time to make sure it works. Make sure its a momentary "On" switch if you go push button. That means its on only when being pushed, if you bought a momentary Off type, it would be always on and only turn off when pushed.(bad news for the GP's) So make sure its an "on" switch.
Everyone has differing opinions on what they use for GP'S and what works for them but the AC60's seem to be something that most guys use for the self regulating feature and the lack of swelling. I just installed them in my 009 and they seem to start the truck a little better than the 13G's that were in there before I switched. There was no real reason causing me to make the change other than I just wanted a heavier duty option for my GP'S VS the 13G's. You will have to change out all of the GP connectors to larger insulated connectors, as the 13G connectors are too small, to fit the glow plug connection. It took me just over an hour to change the plugs and the connectors. No big deal. There should be a pic of my push button switch install;led below my blackout light switches in my photo album.
Everyone has differing opinions on what they use for GP'S and what works for them but the AC60's seem to be something that most guys use for the self regulating feature and the lack of swelling. I just installed them in my 009 and they seem to start the truck a little better than the 13G's that were in there before I switched. There was no real reason causing me to make the change other than I just wanted a heavier duty option for my GP'S VS the 13G's. You will have to change out all of the GP connectors to larger insulated connectors, as the 13G connectors are too small, to fit the glow plug connection. It took me just over an hour to change the plugs and the connectors. No big deal. There should be a pic of my push button switch install;led below my blackout light switches in my photo album.
M1009 NEWBEE 2013
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Here s a pic of the switch I used.
HAMMERSCUCV
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GREAT info - thanks!!! I now have a plan. I'll splice in the button and continue electrical testing prior to installing the card.
M1009 NEWBEE 2013
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Should be a real simple install. Good luck.
For just a simple test to ensure the solenoid is working, you can take a jumper wire and jump from a clean ground to the BLUE wire on the solenoid underhood beside the hydroboost/master cylinder. When you do it should make a loud thump and if you have a voltmeter, you should measure 12v on terminal with the large orange wires are connected. You can use this method to crank it as well, but as with a push button, dont leave the terminal grounded for to long
HAMMERSCUCV
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Roll Tide: Roll Tide - we're in Springville.
Anyway, thanks, good method to test. I am actually replacing the relay anyway because I'm planning to disconnect the gp resistors and pull an 8ga wire from 12v battery to the relay. From what I've read its a good idea to replace it anyway when doing this mod. So I bought 1 from a seller on ebay but now am thinking I may have bought the wrong one (may not be wrong but it seems I couldve bought a more reliable one. Here's the one I bought:
*** removed fleabay link ***
And thoughts on if this solenoid will be good enough or if I should suck it up and pay the $40 to NAPA?
I also just discovered that I do not have the doghead mod so I'll plan on doing that as well.
Man, this site really rocks!!!
Anyway, thanks, good method to test. I am actually replacing the relay anyway because I'm planning to disconnect the gp resistors and pull an 8ga wire from 12v battery to the relay. From what I've read its a good idea to replace it anyway when doing this mod. So I bought 1 from a seller on ebay but now am thinking I may have bought the wrong one (may not be wrong but it seems I couldve bought a more reliable one. Here's the one I bought:
*** removed fleabay link ***
And thoughts on if this solenoid will be good enough or if I should suck it up and pay the $40 to NAPA?
I also just discovered that I do not have the doghead mod so I'll plan on doing that as well.
Man, this site really rocks!!!
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HAMMERSCUCV
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Dadgummit I read that. Won't happen again Warthog.
RollTide12- Don't know that anything is wrong with the existing one, (your test should help answer that) but I thought I read on here where when routing around the resistors with 12v its a good idea to replace or rebuild the existing relay. I figured I'd buy one and at worst have one that works and at best have a spare. Thanks.
RollTide12- Don't know that anything is wrong with the existing one, (your test should help answer that) but I thought I read on here where when routing around the resistors with 12v its a good idea to replace or rebuild the existing relay. I figured I'd buy one and at worst have one that works and at best have a spare. Thanks.
HAMMERSCUCV
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Okay, I'm a bit confused with the best way to use the push button for the gp relay/solenoid.
First we're running an 8ga wire fromt he battery to the 'blue-wired' post on the relay, bypassing the resistors.
For the gp control module bypass (which is missing) momentary On button modification - should I add a wire to the 'blue' gp relay post to the new button and obviously ground the button while leaving the blue wire under dash to the gp control module intact? Seems this would be the best way to have a bypass and keep the system intact for when we add the new gp control module card later.
This was how I was planning on proceeding but after reading through the advise given here there is talk about splicing the blue wire. So now I'm unclear on which is the better way. Seems if I break the blue wire with a button then the gc control module would Require that the button be used to complete the circuit.
Any thoughts / advise I am grateful for.
First we're running an 8ga wire fromt he battery to the 'blue-wired' post on the relay, bypassing the resistors.
For the gp control module bypass (which is missing) momentary On button modification - should I add a wire to the 'blue' gp relay post to the new button and obviously ground the button while leaving the blue wire under dash to the gp control module intact? Seems this would be the best way to have a bypass and keep the system intact for when we add the new gp control module card later.
This was how I was planning on proceeding but after reading through the advise given here there is talk about splicing the blue wire. So now I'm unclear on which is the better way. Seems if I break the blue wire with a button then the gc control module would Require that the button be used to complete the circuit.
Any thoughts / advise I am grateful for.