#2 MEP 805B oh the joys

[peterrrobinson]

Hi. I was reading your posts and I am having the exact same problem with an MEP 805B I purchased at an auction. My network fault light never lights. I pressed in to test and it lit so bulb is good. What exactly did it for you to get that to work? My CIM says Battle Short is ON even though the switch is off. Excuse me, I got confused with all the posts. I would appreciate any help.

 

[unclebeau]

Hi. I was reading your posts and I am having the exact same problem with an MEP 805B I purchased at an auction. My network fault light never lights. I pressed in to test and it lit so bulb is good. What exactly did it for you to get that to work? My CIM says Battle Short is ON even though the switch is off. Excuse me, I got confused with all the posts. I would appreciate any help.

If you start a new thread you will get a better response to your question.

 

[Guyfang]

Roger that! By all means, read this thread from front to rear several times. But a new thread will get you more help. And no one has to wonder where it all started.

 

[peterrrobinson]

Newbie

Roger that! By all means, read this thread from front to rear several times. But a new thread will get you more help. And no one has to wonder where it all started.

Thank you. Please excuse me, I am new to this. Appreciate the tips.

 

[boatman69]

Anytime one is doing a continuity check if you throw in a 30 to 100 ohm resistor into the mix if there's a bad connection it will fail it just needs a bit of a load in it

 

[155mm]

Sooooo, we go out to play today with a jenny. Hook up to my M373 trailer to see what works and what doesnt work, I can get single ph items to work like the lights, plugs, fans..... none of the 3 ph stuff works, the smarter than I am box says 'incorrect phase' light is on.



The power light is on but it is so dim its is not visible with the colored cover installed.

So, does the incorrect phase light mean that I dont have L1 hooked to L1, L2-L2, L3-L3?

I know that it is correct on the jenny, there are tags on the wires but I dont mind moving them around.

 

[Guyfang]

Just because the tags are on the wires, doesn't mean they are right. Normally when you get the incorrect phase light, just change any to phase wires, and then the light should go off. Or trace the phases in the gen set. It could be two wires are swapped on TB1. Simple as that. But first just switch the two wires to see if it corrects the light.

 

[Guyfang]

After a second look at your picture, I have second thoughts. There are two incorrect phase lights. I can't remember a lot about the rig, but I assume one light is for input power, one is for output power. Can you get a phase rotational tester? They are cheap. Some multimeters also can perform the function. Then check the input side first. Now I am going to assume the left side is input. The right side light is on. So I would then test the right side to see if it's I.O. Then you need to see if the phase rotational checker on the rig is wired right. That could always be the problem too. Have you ever had this thing powered up before?

 

[155mm]

I never powered up before with 3 phase, but I was out of phase, i had them hooked up L1L3L2, when i change to 1-2-3 it fixed the light issues.

now to work on the heat/ac units, one doesnt power up, the other show over/under voltage. I am not a pure'ist, so I may just toss the green units and go with comm'l 208 units

 

[Guyfang]

Well, at least give the AC's a look see. Check input voltage. You might have a problem there.

 

[155mm]

input volts is right on, so i will have to dig deeper. Anyone know if there is a bypass for the motor controller to see if the motors work?

 

[Guyfang]

Look at the schematic and see what relay controls the motor, then jump it with a jumper wire. What is the model number and NSN for the unit. If you have the TM number, even better. Then we can look see at the schematic.

 

[155mm]

this is the schematic and tm i am using.



Have not removed them from the camper so I cant give you the nsn, but this is what i can get of the data plate.

 

[Guyfang]

Do you have the -14 and -24P for the air con?

Did you read the below listed warning? And did you hook the air con up for 6 hours before trying to start.


If input power has been disconnected for an unknown period of time, do not start
in COOL MODE until power has been reconnected for a minimum of six hours.

 

[Guyfang]

If you dont have the manuals, I just uploaded them. If you do, then they are still uploaded!! Need any other manuals for the van?

 

[155mm]

I did see that, but not powered for a continuous 6 hours, probably 4 hours total in 3 days, I am supposed to be off tomorrow, will start jenny in the morning and let her run. Wouldnt it be nice if it were just the capacitors had fully discharged and nothing was wrong.

thanks for the upload, I had them open from libmanuals

 

[boatman69]

Capacitors charge-discharge instantly. I'll go out on a limb about the six hours and say it's for the crankcase heater in the compressor in case it was just dropped out of a freezing cold airplane.

 

[155mm]

boatman, you are about as much fun as a bag of anvils, hahaha, well I was pretty sure that it still wasnt going to work even after 6 hours on the jenny, but the poor guy can wish.

 

[Guyfang]

The next step n troubleshooting is looking at the over and under pressure switches. In my experance, that was where the most problems came from. And as soon as it's a low pressure switch, everyone wants to change the "bad" switch. Well, let's not forget that the switch might be telling the truth. The only way to prove the pressure switches is with the Gage's. But make sure they are not tripped.

 

[155mm]

well, I spent ALL DAY chasing a wiring diagram, and it comes down to a dinky ol thermistor wire broken, and I said foowee for today, gonna go sit in an easier chair and drink a barley pop.