2008 M1078 A1R Maryland to California or Bust!

[GCecchetto]

Planning to pickup a cheap GoPro copy somewhere on the road and put it under the truck to see if we can figure out what tires are the issue. Also wondering if maybe the rubber bead locks weren’t centered up in the tire prior to bolting the rims together and there too much weight off set for the balancing beads to correct. Not having done this type of work on the wheels, I don’t now if it’s possible for the bead lock to be off like that or not.

 

[DannyBtruckn]

Maybe a cheap infrared thermometer could help you find which tire/wheel has the issue. Thermal camera would be even better if you want spend the money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GCecchetto]

I have an IR thermometer with me. One front tire felt warmer to the touch, but I didn’t check it with the thermometer.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Planning to pickup a cheap GoPro copy somewhere on the road and put it under the truck to see if we can figure out what tires are the issue. Also wondering if maybe the rubber bead locks weren’t centered up in the tire prior to bolting the rims together and there too much weight off set for the balancing beads to correct. Not having done this type of work on the wheels, I don’t now if it’s possible for the bead lock to be off like that or not.

Not really possible RE the bead lock centering. If you see how the wheels are constructed you will understand.

People have mixed results with balance beads. Works for some people and not for others. What pressure are you running? Try higher or lower pressure.

I have noticed that new tires or tires that have sat tend to take a while to "round out". I drive my truck daily and my original 2008 tires had flat spots but after about 6 months of daily driving they rounded out and were smooth. Then one blew out so I installed brand new tires and at first they were a bit wonky also but are getting better as they break in. During the week they are better than after the truck sits for a three day weekend for example. Try lower pressure like 50 psi to exercise the rubber and also to absorb the harshness of the suspension. Higher pressure makes the tires extra hard but you feel the ground more and it magnifies out of roundness.

There are three entirely different effects at play here and that's where people get tripped up - not considering all angles. The balance is one - at least in principle you have addressed this with the beads. I would assume for the moment this is true. Then you have "roundness" or lack thereof. These tires are large and the truck is heavy. You do that math on how that affects the tires at low temps and overnight at normal highway pressure. Then there's pressure - lower pressure acts like a damper and improves the ride. Higher pressure magnifies roundness issues due to wear (if present), road irregularities, and changes the temperature and therefore the pliability of the rubber. There are many factors and interactions involved and it can take time to iron it all out and hone in on what your combination works best with.

I've also seen tires that were "warped" from being in a tire carrier for a while. Chain marks on the sidewalls and you could watch the tire tread weave back and forth in the rearview mirror as it rotated even though the wheel was straight and true. These tires are finicky like that. Almost make you wonder if we are really that technologically advanced if we can't even make a 4 foot diameter chunk of baked tree sap run in a decent circle without rattling the fillings out of our teeth.

I think I actually mentioned this to you before. You will be running the pressure the tires and wheels and chassis want and the speed they will allow. Not what YOU want. LoL.

The oil leak is concerning - I installed AC on my truck and didn't use any sealant on any of the bolts (no leaks - knock on wood) and the only place I can think of where the bracketry for the compressor is around oil is the timing gear case. Post pics of what you have going on. Oil leaks and timing cases and FMTV's in the same sentence often adds up to cracked castings. Threaded fasteners don't typically leak significant amounts through the threads once tightened unless there's a split lock washer under the head and the oil is around a smooth shank, etc. Copper washer might get it to stop if that's the case. I'm just not seeing how this is still an issue after two tries at sealing it and I didn't use a drop of sealant on any of my bracketry and it's all bone dry unless this is not a sealant issue at all. That would add up to making sense.

As for allowing RTV to "cure" - that might have been true when it first came on the automotive scene in the '80s. Now all the (good) RTV silicone rubber products are "One Minute Return to Service":

Amazon.com

And for that matter I've seen RTV that hadn't cured after MONTHS in a really well sealed threaded hole. Pull out the fastener 3 months after installation and the RTV is still wet around the threads. It's going to cure when it hits moisture/humidity. If it's in a sealed hole it's the same as if it's in it's tube on the shelf. But even not completely cured - if it's viscous enough and the fluid it's sealing doesn't attack it or dissolve it - then it won't leak.

Owning an automotive performance and repair shop (where I was the owner, lead tech, and basically every other worn hat for the first 10 years) I have some experience in matters of sealant. Used this exact product on my ECO hub install in fact (first revision without the gaskets) and zero leaks (knock on dead tree carcass again).

Pics might help us. But probably not unless you clean the area and light it well.

 

[chucky]

Well, we’re on the road, landed in Morgantown West Virginia. Truck is purring like a kitten. Only bummers are that one of the bolts for the AC compressor mount apparently goes into an oil passage in the block and is leaking and making a mess, and my high budget aluminum wheel setup has serious issues. Truck has a horrible hop from the tires/wheels from around 58mph to 68mph. Smooths out again around 70. Was hoping to be cruising at 65mph, but stuck driving 55. Sammy Hagar would not be happy

The wheel situation is quite frustrating because both Berend and his buddy Tom told me after the eco hub install that it was the smoothest LMTV they had ever been in, literally no vibration all the way up to 80 mph. That was with the steel wheels with the crappy old tires. Then we mount the new aluminum wheels with brand new tires with balance beads in them, and the ride sucks.

Anyone with the hot tip for stopping the oil leak, I’d love to hear it. It was put in with RTV on the threads. Then pulled, cleaned up and put back in with RTV on the threads, but it didn’t really have time to cure. Hoping if it’s redone and left to sit for a few days to allow the RTV to cure it will seal. Not holding my breath though since the threads in the hole will be oily.

This will be home for the next week. Tomorrow will be the first full day of driving. Planning to go west on 36. View attachment 907827View attachment 907829

When u stop for a nap cut the truck off take the bolt out spay brake clean in the hole wash it out it will dry fast put high heat permatex on the threads real good tighten it down and should be ready to go by the time you wake up and crank the truck back up

 

[GCecchetto]

Not really possible RE the bead lock centering. If you see how the wheels are constructed you will understand.

People have mixed results with balance beads. Works for some people and not for others. What pressure are you running? Try higher or lower pressure.

I have noticed that new tires or tires that have sat tend to take a while to "round out". I drive my truck daily and my original 2008 tires had flat spots but after about 6 months of daily driving they rounded out and were smooth. Then one blew out so I installed brand new tires and at first they were a bit wonky also but are getting better as they break in. During the week they are better than after the truck sits for a three day weekend for example. Try lower pressure like 50 psi to exercise the rubber and also to absorb the harshness of the suspension. Higher pressure makes the tires extra hard but you feel the ground more and it magnifies out of roundness.

There are three entirely different effects at play here and that's where people get tripped up - not considering all angles. The balance is one - at least in principle you have addressed this with the beads. I would assume for the moment this is true. Then you have "roundness" or lack thereof. These tires are large and the truck is heavy. You do that math on how that affects the tires at low temps and overnight at normal highway pressure. Then there's pressure - lower pressure acts like a damper and improves the ride. Higher pressure magnifies roundness issues due to wear (if present), road irregularities, and changes the temperature and therefore the pliability of the rubber. There are many factors and interactions involved and it can take time to iron it all out and hone in on what your combination works best with.

I've also seen tires that were "warped" from being in a tire carrier for a while. Chain marks on the sidewalls and you could watch the tire tread weave back and forth in the rearview mirror as it rotated even though the wheel was straight and true. These tires are finicky like that. Almost make you wonder if we are really that technologically advanced if we can't even make a 4 foot diameter chunk of baked tree sap run in a decent circle without rattling the fillings out of our teeth.

I think I actually mentioned this to you before. You will be running the pressure the tires and wheels and chassis want and the speed they will allow. Not what YOU want. LoL.

The oil leak is concerning - I installed AC on my truck and didn't use any sealant on any of the bolts (no leaks - knock on wood) and the only place I can think of where the bracketry for the compressor is around oil is the timing gear case. Post pics of what you have going on. Oil leaks and timing cases and FMTV's in the same sentence often adds up to cracked castings. Threaded fasteners don't typically leak significant amounts through the threads once tightened unless there's a split lock washer under the head and the oil is around a smooth shank, etc. Copper washer might get it to stop if that's the case. I'm just not seeing how this is still an issue after two tries at sealing it and I didn't use a drop of sealant on any of my bracketry and it's all bone dry unless this is not a sealant issue at all. That would add up to making sense.

As for allowing RTV to "cure" - that might have been true when it first came on the automotive scene in the '80s. Now all the (good) RTV silicone rubber products are "One Minute Return to Service":

Amazon.com

And for that matter I've seen RTV that hadn't cured after MONTHS in a really well sealed threaded hole. Pull out the fastener 3 months after installation and the RTV is still wet around the threads. It's going to cure when it hits moisture/humidity. If it's in a sealed hole it's the same as if it's in it's tube on the shelf. But even not completely cured - if it's viscous enough and the fluid it's sealing doesn't attack it or dissolve it - then it won't leak.

Owning an automotive performance and repair shop (where I was the owner, lead tech, and basically every other worn hat for the first 10 years) I have some experience in matters of sealant. Used this exact product on my ECO hub install in fact (first revision without the gaskets) and zero leaks (knock on dead tree carcass again).

Pics might help us. But probably not unless you clean the area and light it well.

Highway pressure is set to 65psi. I understand the forces at work, relative to the pressure, the right thing to do is chalk the tires and adjust the pressure so the trade wear is as even as possible across the tread. Which I will do once home. We’re two days behind schedule already and I need to have might kid home and back at work by Monday.

 

[GCecchetto]

When u stop for a nap cut the truck off take the bolt out spay brake clean in the hole wash it out it will dry fast put high heat permatex on the threads real good tighten it down and should be ready to go by the time you wake up and crank the truck back up

Thanks. Kind of reluctant to spray brake clean in a hole that goes into an oil passage. Pretty sure I watched a video on C7 issues and these bolts on the front being chronic leakers was mentioned, could be wrong though.

 

[hike]

Highway pressure is set to 65psi. I understand the forces at work, relative to the pressure, the right thing to do is chalk the tires and adjust the pressure so the trade wear is as even as possible across the tread. Which I will do once home. We’re two days behind schedule already and I need to have might kid home and back at work by Monday.

I agree running, most likely, lower pressure may even out the tires or at least mitigate the issue for the long drive.

Also, I wondered if the cab suspension was reset from the last raising of the cab. On my drive home I forgot to push and twist. Took me 90 minutes of loosing my fillings to stop and check the cab suspension. Perhaps the A1R's are different than the A1's.

Glad it is all coming together. The photos are great, keep them coming—

 

[GCecchetto]

I agree running, most likely, lower pressure may even out the tires or at least mitigate the issue for the long drive.

Also, I wondered if the cab suspension was reset from the last raising of the cab. On my drive home I forgot to push and twist. Took me 90 minutes of loosing my fillings to stop and check the cab suspension. Perhaps the A1R's are different than the A1's.

Glad it is all coming together. The photos are great, keep them coming—

No air suspension on the cab on A1R’s.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Highway pressure is set to 65psi. I understand the forces at work, relative to the pressure, the right thing to do is chalk the tires and adjust the pressure so the trade wear is as even as possible across the tread. Which I will do once home. We’re two days behind schedule already and I need to have might kid home and back at work by Monday.

These tires don't play that consumer product tire wear game. They are going to wear evenly unless the axles are WAY screwed up. This is heavy duty solid axle land with huge sidewalls. The tire is not going to tip up on an edge and wear down one side like a passenger car or truck - the forces involved ensure that's essentially impossible. That's just not a thing in this world and if you go by that you will have no fillings left. Tires are going to last roughly 30k-35k highway miles at any of the various acceptable highway pressures. This is why the military runs some trucks at 55 or 60 psi and some at 81 psi. And then 77 psi in the M1082 trailer. Tire wear across all those trucks is the same from my observation and the steer axle tires experience basically the same load regardless of unloaded soft cab M1078 or fully loaded M1088 A1P2.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Thanks. Kind of reluctant to spray brake clean in a hole that goes into an oil passage. Pretty sure I watched a video on C7 issues and these bolts on the front being chronic leakers was mentioned, could be wrong though.

A spritz of brake clean into 6 gallons of oil isn't going to do diddly. Engine heat will evaporate it in a hurry and it wouldn't be enough to change the oil characteristics even if it didn't.

My truck has ~13k miles on it. 2k from 2008 to 2019 and 11k from 2019 to today. No leaks.

 

[sue]

Well, we’re on the road, landed in Morgantown West Virginia. Truck is purring like a kitten. Only bummers are that one of the bolts for the AC compressor mount apparently goes into an oil passage in the block and is leaking and making a mess, and my high budget aluminum wheel setup has serious issues. Truck has a horrible hop from the tires/wheels from around 58mph to 68mph. Smooths out again around 70. Was hoping to be cruising at 65mph, but stuck driving 55. Sammy Hagar would not be happy

The wheel situation is quite frustrating because both Berend and his buddy Tom told me after the eco hub install that it was the smoothest LMTV they had ever been in, literally no vibration all the way up to 80 mph. That was with the steel wheels with the crappy old tires. Then we mount the new aluminum wheels with brand new tires with balance beads in them, and the ride sucks.

Anyone with the hot tip for stopping the oil leak, I’d love to hear it. It was put in with RTV on the threads. Then pulled, cleaned up and put back in with RTV on the threads, but it didn’t really have time to cure. Hoping if it’s redone and left to sit for a few days to allow the RTV to cure it will seal. Not holding my breath though since the threads in the hole will be oily.

This will be home for the next week. Tomorrow will be the first full day of driving. Planning to go west on 36. View attachment 907827View attachment 907829

Not a fan of “balance beads”, aviation form a gasket is much better thread sealant
or anyone around aviation knows 1422 or 8802 sealant. Fuel tank stuff.
can get cure times from 30 minutes to 28 days your choic.
commercial name is proseal.

 

[sue]

Again depending on route we’re available for help or service

 

[MarkM]

I happen to be an old A&P so I know those old name sealants very well. I was just talking to my oldest boy about using them for better results. The old red high temp Permatex spray a gasket is a lifesaver for holding gaskets in place.

Mark

 

[sue]

I happen to be an old A&P so I know those old name sealants very well. I was just talking to my oldest boy about using them for better results. The old red high temp Permatex spray a gasket is a lifesaver for holding gaskets in place.

Mark

The engines I have built (aircraft,car,truck,boat gocart etc) have all been built
with 1422/8802 a-2, or a-6 sealant. Never EVER seep,leak,nothing.
on opposed 4&6 cylinder aircraft engines,my customers always want
to use the neat silicone valve cover color (red,blue etc)gaskets. Then I tell them
“I will give
you two weeks to stop seeping oil with those cool looking valve cover
gaskets or you owe
me a case of my favorite German beer“ then I charge them two hours labor
two paint cheap cork
gaskets with proseal (1422,A-2). Then I make sure to offer them a good
beer out of the fridge in the hanger. Then I tell them think of the hours I have saved you cleaning the belly of your plane.

 

[serpico760]

You can get a new or used cat S62 phone with a built-in Flir camera it's pretty awesome!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You can get a new or used cat S62 phone with a built-in Flir camera it's pretty awesome!

You can get them for any phone now for under $200:

Amazon.com

Only the S62 "Pro" version has the FLIR sensor and the ask on them is steep.

 

[GCecchetto]

Sorry I haven’t been posting, been pulling long miles. Day before yesterday was 710 miles. Been averaging 9-10 mpg hand calculated. In Green River Utah, headed for Austin Nevada today then home tomorrow. Truck has been running like. Swiss watch mechanically, but definitely some little niggles to sort out.

 

[MarkM]

What's that white stuff on the ground?

 

[GCecchetto]

Made it home earlier this evening, Total miles for the trip was around 3200 with zero mechanical issues. Now to start working on the little niggles to get them sorted out.