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37x 12.50R 17 tire upgrade on CUCV

mtperkins

Member
52
31
18
Location
Cazenovia,NY
If your asking me about the power with the 37's... then its fine for what I do. These day's I'm in no hurry to get anywhere. I have a few more little items to fix then get the truck NYSI. The trans is not shifting very well. I hope it's a vacuum leak from sitting around.
 

2INSANE

Well-known member
722
819
93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
If your asking me about the power with the 37's... then its fine for what I do. These day's I'm in no hurry to get anywhere. I have a few more little items to fix then get the truck NYSI. The trans is not shifting very well. I hope it's a vacuum leak from sitting around.
The only time I had problems with the th400 was when the Vacuum Modulator got fluid in it. Instead of buying a new one every year, I take it off and simply clean it with brakekleen and compressed air. Then I would adjust the screw on the inside of the Vacuum Modulator to give me the desired shifting firmness or softness.

The hole end of the aluminum vacuum pipe going to the modulator sometimes got build up in it as well. A sharp knife or pick can clean that out.

Should be an easy fix for you.
 

mtperkins

Member
52
31
18
Location
Cazenovia,NY
What are they selling these days? I bought my front springs a few years ago. Think they were Tuff Country. Factory replacements but no idea where the center pin sits in relation to OEM.

I think he also sells Alcans? I would assume those are pushed forwards.

My Burb has his 4" front springs and I redrilled 1" forward. Nice firewall clearance. I should have done that before trimming on my CUCV. The M1031 has stock steering so I haven't done it yet.


Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Hey Skinny,

What did you do about the sway bar when you pushed the axle ahead? I'm getting to the point of ordering springs. I just ordered the Zero drops from ORD.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,177
1,830
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
I did the zero rate 1" lift blocks on mine with 1.5 inch offset. I ditched the sway bar. I don't really notice it missing except when driving behind the truck. On the freeway the torque winds the chassis up so that the tailgate and back window angles are off by about 2 inches.

This pic shows the minimal amount of fender trimming required. You'll also need to shorten the tie-rods and sleeve at the steering box, about an inch off each tie rod end and cut close to the clamps on the sleeve.

I do plan to take leafs out of the rear pack to make it comparable to a 1/2 ton. I assume the body roll will get much worse.

The rims are from a 2000ish Dodge 2500. Rock Auto has a good deal on them.
 

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mtperkins

Member
52
31
18
Location
Cazenovia,NY
I did the zero rate 1" lift blocks on mine with 1.5 inch offset. I ditched the sway bar. I don't really notice it missing except when driving behind the truck. On the freeway the torque winds the chassis up so that the tailgate and back window angles are off by about 2 inches.

This pic shows the minimal amount of fender trimming required. You'll also need to shorten the tie-rods and sleeve at the steering box, about an inch off each tie rod end and cut close to the clamps on the sleeve.

I do plan to take leafs out of the rear pack to make it comparable to a 1/2 ton. I assume the body roll will get much worse.

The rims are from a 2000ish Dodge 2500. Rock Auto has a good deal on them.

Your springs frown:( like mine. The picture helps.. That's what I'm trying to go for. Thank you!!!
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
217
772
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I installed the C140S springs from Skyjacker in the front with ORD 4” shackle flip in the back. I am also going to be installing the zero rates in the near future to level everything out. My truck doesn’t have a motor or basically anything on the front forward of the cab so I anticipate it dropping about an inch with the motor, warn series 12 winch, body panels, radiator, batteries, etc. Then it should level out about even hopefully. In these pictures there is 15 gallons of fuel in the tank and a warn series 18 sitting all of the way aft in the bed. Right now it has a 0.5 degree drop toward the front.

I think I’m also going to move the rear axle back about an inch and move the front axle forward an inch. It’s difficult to cycle a leaf spring suspension to full travel so it’s challenging to really tell where the clearance issues will pop up since every wheel and tire combo is a little bit different.

The axles will move back and up during compression, so it seems like it would be best to have the axles slightly forward of the wheel well center…we’ll see!6B8142B4-BD88-476A-BA75-730A56406852.jpeg479EFDBB-0A47-4B0B-9B2B-3763376EA414.jpeg
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
217
772
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
All right so I have the ORD zero rates installed in the front now and it gave me a 0.3 degree drop toward the rear now. I ended up moving the axle forward an inch as well and it looks good. I have 4” from the closest point to the cab side of the fender. Really need to cycle the suspension with everything installed to check it out. I think when I get the motor and winch in it will level right out.9C15A35B-5039-4D93-A7F1-F0001126521C.jpeg0F380B40-0C3F-4B76-8320-C803388E7559.jpeg5177C895-2265-4BDD-B3AE-6D96ACA5BEA5.jpeg
 

LT67

Well-known member
654
497
63
Location
Bowdon, GA
If your asking me about the power with the 37's... then its fine for what I do. These day's I'm in no hurry to get anywhere. I have a few more little items to fix then get the truck NYSI. The trans is not shifting very well. I hope it's a vacuum leak from sitting around.
Same here.. the beauty of driving an M1008 is relaxing and enjoying the ride instead of hurry up and wait
 
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