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5 ton questions help a newbie out

ClanOGallagher

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I'm going this weekend to look and possibly buy my first MV. All I know is it about a 91 5 ton 3 axle 6x6 it has the CTIS and looks to be super singles.

What I need help with is because this is my first ever MV I don't know what to look for. I know vehicles and no my way around working on most but these beats are a whole nother story. If you all can tell me what I need to look for to male sure I get a good deal and not hosed that would be greatly appreciated
 

98G

Former SSG
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You're describing an M931A2.

There's a big long list of things to check, but first and foremost is whether the seller has a title in his name. Not an SF97, not a bill of sale, but an actual state issued title.
 

ClanOGallagher

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He said he had a title from who he bought it from but never put it in his name. As long as it's an actual title I'll be fine with it. I can take it to DMV and get it taken care of as long as Cali doesn't try screwing me over
 

therooster2001

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Yeah, warning, warning, you need a title. Don't budge without it, not even if he discounts it. Hopefully you searched around on here, there are recovery threads, which this might be. It's a list of things to check for. With any vehicle, you need to check everything. Check fluids, tires, things out of the ordinary. Take lots of pictures and follow up on them. Don't make a decision if you don't know, better off, take a knowledgeable person with you.
 

98G

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Make sure it's a title and not an SF97. The SF97 is only good for the initial transfer.

XL tires are to be avoided, especially on the steer axle.

At the price you mentioned, any decently running decent condition M931A2 is worth that *if* it has a title. I'm highly suspicious that he didn't transfer it....
 

74M35A2

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Great questions and advice so far, in the right priority. See if you can take a 5 ton member here with you to look at it. 5t MV is a sizeable commitment.
 

Floridianson

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As 98G said must be a true title not sf97. If it is a true title then he is floating it so he did not have to pay the sales tax when he got it.
If you don't mind me asking what is he asking for it? Did you ask him if he is a member of Steel Soldiers ?
 

BKubu

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Make sure that the previous seller did not require him to sign the title. If it was signed over to him, he'll need to convert the title to his name to sell it to you with a title...unless he is a dealer and has a dealer reassignment form, which does not sound like the case.
 

ClanOGallagher

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CA dmv has a form called the 262 that can be used if the title was signed but never put in that guys name. Im not to worried about that part more just what to look out for mechanically when buying this truck
 

Floridianson

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There might be some members here that are selling the same thing for a better price. Also they most likely have serviced the machine correctly. Do you know if the truck is unrestored serviced or what service he said has been done. Will you have the truck hauled or you thinking about driving it and how far.
 

74M35A2

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Welcome, you sound somewhat serious.

Check threads here for any CA title issues specific to 5 ton MV's. An SF-97 is not the same as a title, you want to make sure you can get a road legal title in your state.

If you get beyond the SF-97/title issue, and you are unable to find another member to go, here would be my list of check items, maybe you could print and take as a checklist. Others here will have good ideas as well. This is mostly make/break, not nit-pick stuff that can be fixed, and this is probably like any other regular vehicle:

Does it seem to start and run well? Minimal exhaust smoke when cold/warm?
Any strange noises which would seem irregular to a diesel engine (hard metal knocking, something loose, vibrating, etc...)?
All gauges work and have proper readings (oil pressure may read low when warm, this is usually just poor gauge resolution in the low pressure range area)?
Does air build to 100-120psi range and hold (low air warning buzzer and light until 60psi)?
Transmission operate properly in all gears (torque converter locks up in 2nd, so it feels like it "shifts" even when held in 2nd)?
No water/coolant in engine or transmission oil?
Brakes work well? They are typically very strong on these trucks, especially when empty load.
No excessive engine/transmission/t-case/axle oil leak areas (wet)?
Vehicle should be able to accelerate to and hold 65-67mph (2100rpm) on flat ground as a check for full engine power and good transmission. 8.3L turbo will have delayed stop light take off until turbo wakes up.
Should drive reasonably straight, level, and vibration free except for tire tread noise/vibration.
Radiator look dry at core/bottom and tank ends/bottom (coolant full in reservoir tank, no air bubbles when running)?
Minimal to zero engine blow-by out of road draft tube when engine cold and warm? I have seen several 8.3L's have bad blow-by from excessive sitting, rings stick, then break on next start.
Minimal cab rot, check under passenger seat area from battery acid leaks.
Transfer case should give an audible "clunk" when engaged and dash light illuminate.

Known problem areas, mostly due to age, are: torque rod (control arm) end link bushings, fuel tank dip tube (suction straw inside tank), leaking soft fuel suction lines from tank to filter/engine, axle pinion seals, horn, PCB, batteries (suggest to keep battery age < 5 years old, can use $100 modern semi-truck batteries as economical replacement and space saver), and difficulty shifting transfer case in and out of low range (sometimes have to blow off all truck air pressure).

Smaller items which can be fixed are CTIS & ABS fault codes, engine fuel shut off solenoid (if 8.3L), burned out lights, worn tires, etc.....

Let the owner shut the engine off each and every time, as there is a specific switch order as to not over-volt the electrical system, unless an aftermarket civilian alternator has been installed.
 
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71DeuceAK

Well-known member
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Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
First of all, welcome!

As others have said, make sure you can get titled, etc and look for maintenance issues. While not to start an insurance/CDL thread, be sure to look into all of the above and beware you will likely get conflicting information. (If you want to know my recent experiences, PM me).

Good luck, keep us posted!
 

MAdams

Active member
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San Dimas, CA
Clan, be very cautious of the bad advice you get on the internet. Your DMV questions are CA specific and what these guys are telling you isn't accurate
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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As far as the truck as a whole. Just check it for the basic stuff. Oil leaks, broken/cracks in seals on the rear dog bones, tire condition. Ensure the CTIS is functioning, if not, take it off and throw it away. Check for the MWOs on the door tag. As well as any stickers or signs of an RSMS rebuild. Those are the cherry trucks.

Carry along a infared temp gun and check the hub and bearing temps after you test drive it to see if any are showing overheating signs. Check for any unevenness or cracks in the hardtop of it has one. Also ensure you can shift the transfer case from High to Low while at idle and full air pressure and also while moving forward. 90 percent of the trucks have one of those two issues with the solenoids on the transfer case. It also helps knock down prices if you can point out several issues that are small quick fixes.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Post back here after inspection if you have any questions, we'll be happy to answer nearly anything, typically in less than 24hrs. If you buy it, and as you own and work on it, post your stories back up here for others to learn and benefit from. We adore pictures, especially stuff in the background on your garage floor and shelves (that part is just me, not anybody else here). We know what every letter of the alphabet looks like, so we can get bored easily without photos, usually in 3 replies or less. We already want to know what the truck looks like.

Upgrade your wardrobe and physique, you'll get your picture taken hundreds of times a year in this thing. Good luck.
 
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